by Deactivated Member » Tue Jul 05, 2005 9:47 pm
If Scotland were France, there would be a prescribed way of doing things in each legally defined region. If you want to make cheese in Pont-L'Évêque, you have to make Pont-L'Évêque cheese in the specific way that Pont-L'Évêque cheese is made (at least if you want it to carry that name). And if "Island" were an official territorial designation, there would be prescribed methods, equipment, and even raw material. But as Christian rightly points out, there is no real terroir in whisky, and I firmly believe that "coastal" whiskies taste the way they do because that's the way they want it to taste. Certainly temperature and humidity play a role in maturation, but the variation from place to place in Scotland, at least insofar as the result is concerned, is likely not so great as some would like to believe. Perhaps, like the French, the Scots believe that certain methods work best in certain places; nonetheless, they are plainly not so sticky about it as to mandate various appellations.
What's more, "coastal" is one thing, but lumping islands from Arran to Orkney (and soon, presumably, Shetland) in one category is quite another. It's even arguable whether Arran is above or below the Highland Line (and I've just spent 45 minutes trying to find out--if anyone here can link us to a map showing the commonly accepted placement of the line, I'd appreciate it). Arran could certainly proclaim its own unique appellation, anyway! So after all is said and done, I wouldn't worry too much about whether an "Island" malt tasted "Islandy" or not.
Or perhaps Bruichladdich tastes less maritimey than other Islays because it's across the street from Loch Indaal....