Enough Single Malt to Make You See Double
by beijingboyce » Thu Feb 15, 2007 7:01 am
Hello All,
Another Whiskey tasting in Beijing, though this one was not organized by me. I thought some people might be interested in what's happening here in the Middle Kingdom, so here's the writeup (I was going to post a link to my blog, but was worried about being accused of self-promotion, so now I'll just worry about being accused of flooding the forum with long posts!).
Cheers, BB
ENOUGH SINGLE MALT TO MAKE YOU SEE DOUBLE
A bunch of Canucks organized a tasting of seven single malts last Saturday eve in Beijing, a city with about three times (~15 million) as many people as Scotland (~5 million) but, sadly, far less Scotch. Led by co-organizer DH, about a dozen of us sniffed, sipped and savored single malts from the major regions of Scotland save the Lowlands. We shared our thoughts on these spirits and ranked each according to color, nose, taste and finish as well as 11 factors, such as spiciness, nuttiness and fruitiness. We then picked our three favorites and a cellar dweller. Apples, pears and even "apple pears" served as palate cleansers, and most of us took a splash of water with our whiskey, served in five-ounce tumblers. Without further ado, my notes on each of the single malts, in order of consumption - as mentioned many a time, I'm a novice taster. (Prices are for duty free, U.S. dollars.)
Dalwhinnie Single Highland Malt 15-year (Highland)
In ancient times, cattle herders met in Dalwhinnie, meaning "meeting place," which has access to peat and to a spring, which provides water for the distillery, which means the cows... wait, how exactly do they fit into the story? In any case, one word summed up the color, nose and taste of this one: butterscotch. The alcohol content overwhelmed the flavors a bit in the beginning, but this Whiskey was a pleasure to roll about on the tongue, and overall smooth. ($41)
Macallan Elegancia 12-year (Speyside)
The packaging features Macallan's 300-year-old Easter Elchies House, with Elchies apparently being among the few Basque words in the area - the "el" means house, the "che" means hill. This single malt matures in sherry casks from Jerez, Spain. The nose had a lightly floral honey-syrup scent, with a hint of spiciness. I found the flavors mild and balanced. ($32.80)
Bowmore Darkest 14-year (Islay)
Aged 12 years in Bourbon casks and two years in Sherry casks, Bowmore is the only distillery that malts its own barley, said DH, adding that company literature describes this Whiskey's color as "polished teak." Its nose was the most pungent of the seven, smelling rather medicinal (iodine?), smoky and peaty. One of the event organizers said, "It's got a BBQ sauce thing," which rang true. My initial reaction to this Whiskey was negative, but I slowly changed my mind (see the end). ($62.70)
Talisker Malt (Island of Skye)
This also smelled medicinal / smoky, though less so than the Bowmore. I found too many flavors going on here and someone equated the sharp alcohol edge to a "blow torch." This Whiskey elicited the widest range of opinions. DH told us that the primary tastes are sweet and salty. "Salty" sounded right. The label stated that the "taste might be challenging to the casual [drinker]." "Challenging" also sounded right. Even better was this passage from the notes: "Noticeable peat smoke and even iodine. Very light sulphur, toffee and faintly fishy. Sherry and kippers; wax paper and candle wax; iodine, hemp, pine resin." Yep, challenging. (Note: the liqueur Drambuie contains Talisker.) ($41.30)
The Balvenie Doublewood 12-year (Speyside)
The nose was consistent and well balanced, with appealing warmth and hints of both honey and smoke. This was a solid whiskey, with some distinct toffee flavors. A few people found this single malt mild enough for sipping neat. ($27.50)
Tormore Single Speyside Malt 12-year (Speyside)
With a greenish-yellow hue, this one flirted from being a bit floral to a bit herbal to a bit sweet to a bit too many bits that made it somewhat nondescript. DH said it is considered to have a "cardboard" smell, and that rang true. (By the way, does a nicer synonym for cardboard exist? What was this smell called before cardboard's invention? Wet log-like? Damp leaves-ish?). Further sniffing revealed more aromas, but the Tormore did not go over well with our group, and someone, in a less than flattering light, described it as being "like a girl from Swift Current." Hmmm, not exactly sure what that means... ($31)
Dalmore "The Black Isle" 12-year (Northern Highland)
I could smell something burnt (apples?), but otherwise found the nose very light, with a slight medicinal smell. The company literature says Dalmore is an "attack" on the mouth. If so, reinforcements are needed, perhaps more heavily armed, because I found this one a bit nondescript and none too overpowering. Some tasters noticed citrus flavors, but I didn't pick them up - to be fair, I may have been experiencing single malt fatigue by this point. We had chocolate with this final Whiskey. ($28.50)
In the end, people listed their top three choices and one cellar dweller. Bowmore, Balvenie and Dalwhinnie, roughly in that order, emerged as winners, while Tormore finished last. The Bowmore was trickiest: my original adverse reaction to its medicinal smell and its taste shifted over time and I ended finding it most intriguing - this definitely requires more research. Finally, if only I had read the Macallan Web site beforehand and seen its Whiskies being promoted with the tagline, "Savoured and enjoyed by style leaders from New York to Shanghai" – I would have voted the Elegancia into the cellar for pretentious advertising alone.
(Note: I found the psychology behind the tasting interesting. For example, the prices of the single malts were listed on the evaluation sheets and I, and I'm sure others, assumed the expensive spirits would taste better. Listening to neighbors' appraisals, hearing the descriptions from the bottle backs, and learning this or that single malt has won awards also has an affect. It just goes to show the value, whether you are trying whiskey or wine, of blind tasting.)[/b]