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Whisky Magazine Issue 20

Whisky Magazine Issue 20

Whisky Magazine Issue 20

In this issue - Whisky & Literature - Glengoyne - Vintage Malts - Canadian Tasting

Published December 2001

Walsh and Gunn: the quiet maen
Maurice Walsh and Neil Gunn – two celebrated authors slowly being rediscovered. Gavin Smith explains the appeal of these quintessential whisky writers.

December 2001, Issue 20, page

From the editor
You are male, in your early 40s. You are married with two children and have a household income of over £50,000 ($80,000) per year. You have visited distilleries in Scotland. You always read Michael J...

December 2001, Issue 20, page 5

Near the Finnish line?
Michael Jackson enthuses, but finds it hard to finish

December 2001, Issue 20, page 7

First impressions last
Dave Broom mulls over recent world events, the stereotypes that influence first impressions and the ties that bind us all. The world to rights over a glass....

December 2001, Issue 20, page 8

Whisky and the written word
Brian Hennigan examines the positive and often negative relationship between writers, their work and the water of life.

December 2001, Issue 20, page 18

Describing flavour
Pip Hills penetrates the smokescreen surrounding the complexities of tasting, flavour and how to describe them in a way we can all understand …

December 2001, Issue 20, page 28

Maltster and servant
A keen collector of first-hand information on whisky, Martine Nouet had the fantastic opportunity to make a whisky-lover and -writer's dream come true: work in the Glenfiddich and Balvenie distillerie...

December 2001, Issue 20, page 32

Alchemy by the Bay
Stuart MacLean Ramsay takes a trip to the US west coast and checks out three very different but equally daring and passionate distillers

December 2001, Issue 20, page 38

Sole Survivor (Glengoyne)
John Lamond visits Glengoyne Distillery – an enduring whisky landmark in an area littered with the remains of over 20 distilleries that didn't withstand the tests of time

December 2001, Issue 20, page 42

A Walker on the wild side
Jefferson Chase kicks off a new feature looking at whisky in literature. Step forward Walker Percy, as we salute you …

December 2001, Issue 20, page 48

Scotland and whisky: the real story
Pip Hills strips away years of bombast, puff and heavy stereotype to reveal the truth about Scotland and whisky

December 2001, Issue 20, page 50

Pushing back the frontiers of spirit in France (La Maison du Whisky)
Martine Nouet takes a closer look at near-legendary La Maison du Whisky, the Paris store that's done so much to change the old-fashioned perception of whisky in France

December 2001, Issue 20, page 54

Vintage appeal
Ian Wisniewski explains what makes a vintage worth shelling out extra cash for – and why collectors are going crazy for them …

December 2001, Issue 20, page 58

A taste of Ireland
Martine Nouet heads into the little-charted waters of cooking with Irish whiskey, combining traditional Gaelic fare with some arguably controversial choices of spirit. Three tantalising courses, five ...

December 2001, Issue 20, page 62

Why Scotch is sexy in Spain
Tom Bruce-Gardyne explores the reasons, both cultural and political, behind Spain becoming the world's biggest consumer of Scotch whisky and with an image quite unlike any other

December 2001, Issue 20, page 66

In conversation (Evan Thomas Cattanach)
Charles MacLean meets Evan Thomas Cattanach, long-term Distillery Manager and now Director of Scotch Knowledge for Schefflin & Somerset in New York

December 2001, Issue 20, page 85

Haydock: a tear in the fabric of space and time
John Haydock attacks everybody, dismisses everything then wakes up and denies it all exclusively in Whisky Magazine every issue. Remember – not only did you read it here first, it was the only plac...

December 2001, Issue 20, page 90

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

Crown Royal Special Reserve
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
8 Much more character.

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

Forty Creek Barrel Select
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
8 The richest-tasting Canadian whisky I have tasted. Wins points for luxury.

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

Gibson's Finest 18 Years Old
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
8 Appetising, Very enjoyable.

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

Signatory Highland Park 1988
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
8 A lovely whisky. A sweetish bottling. More complex and elegant than the 'official' 12 Years Old, but not quite as expressive as the 18.

Whisky Magazine - Recommended - Winner

Glenmorangie Côte de Beaune
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
8 As the glass sits on my desk, aromas and flavours slowly emerge, I like it more and more, but I suspect it will always be overshadowed by last year's Côte de Nuits.

Whisky Magazine - Recommended - Winner

William Grant's 25 Years Old
Blended - Scotland - 43.00%
8 A long maturation for a blend, but this has emerged with confidence, style and sophistication.

Auchroisk 10 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
7 This version is not obviously sherryish, but still manages very big flavours indeed. I'm very impressed.

Bruichladdich 10 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
8 Not only the liveliness of youth but also the least wood influence. The use of second-fill casks leaves the fruity flavours of Bruichladdich to express themselves more freely.

Canadian Club 100 Proof
Blended - Canada - 50.00%
7 About as robust a whisky as I have tasted from the established Canadian distillers.

Canadian Club 8 Years Old, Sherry Cask
Blended - Canada - 41.30%
7 Does Canadian work with sherry? I think bourbon wood has more to offer, but this is a nice try.

Canadian Club Classic 12 Years Old
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
7 That medicinal touch gives this whisky an appetising edge.

Canadian Club Reserve 10 Years Old
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
7 Straight-ahead Canadian whisky, as I remember it from my early days as an eclectic drinker.

Canadian Mist Original
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
6 Sweet and bland.

Century Reserve 15 Years Old
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
7 Very light-tasting. Some delicacy.

Century Reserve 21 Years Old
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
7 Substantially more character than the 15 Years Old.

Chieftain's Choice Auchroisk 11 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
7 The port threatens to dominate the malt. I can't recall tasting such a powerful wood finish. Could seduce people who believe they don't like whisky. For that purpose, I would use this rather than a li...

Chieftain's Choice Glenturret, 10 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
7 Pleasant, but I have had more complex bottlings from this distillery.

Chieftain's Choice Teaninich 21 Years Old Sherry Butt
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
7 Not much subtlety, but I always enjoy its big, confident, flavours.

Crown Royal
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
8 Like Seagram's VO Gold, a delicate but wonderfully dextrous blend.

Famous Grouse Islay Cask Finish
Blended - Scotland - 40.00%
8 To reconcile the style of the regular Grouse with Islay is an achievement, but a dubious one. Grouse has a powerful franchise, but Highland already has an Islay-accented blend in the excellent Black B...

Famous Grouse Port Wood Finish
Blended - Scotland - 40.00%
7 Port wood can add toffeeish and spicy flavours, rounding out a whisky without adding an obvious wine flavour. That is what happens here.

Forty Creek Three Grain
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
7 In palate, the closer of the two to the Canadian tradition. Wins points for that attribute. I could drink quite a few of these.

Gibson's Finest 12 Years Old
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
7 Pleasant and well-balanced, with a freshness and confidence.

Gibson's Finest Sterling
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
7 Is there enough of a bridge between the youngest and oldest whiskies?

Girvan Single Grain 1964
Single Grain - Scotland - 48.00%
8 I've always had a soft spot for this distillery's Black Barrel, and I like this version even more. Not very complex – but it is a grain whisky.

Glen Spey 12 Years Old, Distillery Malt
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
7 Richer and more expressive than any version I have tasted previously. Extraordinary sweetness.

Glenmorangie Manager's Choice Port Wood
Single Malt - Scotland - 57.20%
7 Very port-tasting and curiously unrefined. Having robust tastes in food and drink, I loved it. Some might find it lacking in sophistication.

Glenmorangie Three Cask Matured
Single Malt - Scotland - 40.00%
7 A very unusual vatting (bourbon, plain charred oak and Rioja) has produced equally strange flavours. Less oaky vanilla and more Rioja than I would have expected. I like its eccentricity, but it loses ...

Grant's Sherry Cask
Blended - Scotland - 40.00%
8 Masculine. Rather austere, aloof.

Knappogue Castle 1993
Single Malt - Ireland - 40.00%
7 The vinho verde colour suggests a very light whiskey, and this certainly is, in both body and flavour. This bottling seems markedly thinner than the last vintage I tasted.

Mackillop's Choice Glen Keith 1967
Single Malt - Scotland - 41.40%
7 A peatier expression of Glen Keith than I have tasted before.

Mackillop's Choice Tomintoul 1966
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.50%
7 Delicate, and definitely Speyside, but not quite as elegant as some expressions I have tasted.

Seagram's VO GOld 8 Years Old
Blended - Canada - 40.00%
8 Light and delicate, but beautifully composed.

Signatory Ardmore 1990
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
8 Robust as ever, but much more peatiness than I associate with this distillery. Oaky, too, for a relatively young whisky.

Signatory Caol Ila 1989
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
8 A fine example of Caol Ila – in one of its peatier moods.

Signatory Coleburn 1991
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
7 I'm glad still to be able to taste a whisky from this long-gone distillery, but it's really one for the collectors.

Signatory Millburn 1983
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
7 Confusing aroma, but otherwise the most enjoyable Millburn I have tasted.

Signatory The Glenrothes 1990
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
7 An elegant and luxurious malt. Glenrothes. This is an elegant and luxurious interpretation of it.

Strathmill 12 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
7 A dessert malt, perhaps, but for that purpose I prefer sweeter bottlings.

The Macallan Replica, 1861
Single Malt - Scotland - 42.70%
8 Quite an achievement. Like the previous 'replica' edition, this is more delicate than the robustly sherried Macallans of today.

W.L. Weller 19 Years Old
Bourbon - U.S.A. - 45.00%
8 If this had been bottled for six or seven years ago, I would probably have loved its big flavours. I like oak, but this is too much, and too old, for me. If you are an oak extremist, rush out and buy ...

William Grant's Ale Cask Reserve
Blended - Scotland - 40.00%
7 Fresh and seductively drinkable. I'm astonished how well this innovation worked. The ale was brewed especially to add much more malty sweetness than hop.

Authors this issue



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