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Whisky Magazine Issue 22 cover image

Whisky Magazine Issue 22

In this issue - Festival Previews - Collecting - Forsyth's - Caramel - 12 year olds tasting

Published on 16/5/2002

5

From the Editor

In Issue 20, Pip Hills argued, with some passion, the case for Scotch being a cultural product. Surely the government will be doing whatever it can to support and energise the industry? At the time of...

By Marcin Miller in the section From the Editor

26

The 2 Barries

The hands-on whiskey makers who have helped re-shape Irish whiskey, in conversation with Michael Jackson

1: The distiller He looks the part (a hint of the leprechaun?) but Barry Crockett does not make his whiskey under a toadstool. He was born in a distillery – Midleton, in County Cork – and came of...

By Michael Jackson in the section Whisky Profile

44

The Forsyth's saga

Tom Bruce-Gardyne visits Speyside still-makers Forsyth’s to find out about the leading coppersmiths

At the heart of every malt whisky distillery stands the still-room where its glorious diversity of weird shaped stills reside. The fact they are all so different allows each distillery to stamp its ow...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne in the section Whisky Production

48

A choice dram

Tom Bruce-Gardyne meets one of single-cask bottling’s real success stories, as Lorne Mackillop and his Mackillop’s Choice label go from strength to strength

London’s west end is famed for its private doctors and dentists and for the size of their consultation fees, but it is not the first place you would look for a firm of independent bottlers, nor the ...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne in the section Independent Bottlers

50

Proof at last - the Irish invented whisk(e)y!

A source of pride for the Scots – but Barry Walsh discovers the ‘truth’ behind the origins of whisk(e)y

The Irish and the Scots have always argued about who first invented whisk(e)y. It is generally accepted the noble art of distillation from fermented grain and water had Celtic origins in the British I...

By Barry Walsh in the section Whisky Production

52

Caramel keg

Ian Wisniewski investigates one of whisky’s most controversial and maligned ingredients … caramel

What a lot of fuss. You only have to mention caramel and a certain group gets over-anxious and condemnatory. Admittedly it’s the more militant single malt brigade rather than the majority of Scotch ...

By Ian Wisniewski in the section Whisky Production

63

Age before beauty

Does older always mean better with whisky? Gavin Smith looks at the facts

There is an influential school of whisky thought that considers older necessarily equals better. Older also usually equals more expensive, and paying a high price for whisky reflects the status of the...

By Gavin D. Smith in the section Whisky Production

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Whisky Tastings

Isle of Skye 12 Years Old
The aromas and flavours evoke breakfast, but in a farmhouse kitchen with an open fire, rused and dashed by the winds down the chimney.

Linkwood 12 Years Old
Linkwood always evokes thoughts of sweetmeats. This one seems a particularly sweet interpetation.

Tamnavulin 12 Years Old
Very much as I remember it. Fresh, attractive.

Scottish Leader 12 Years Old
Very mild, but a blend assembled with great skill and subtlety.

Old Charter 12 Years Old
A good, substantial bourbon.

W.L. Weller 12 Years Old
Plenty of dimension. The acidity makes it especially appetising and drinkable, and potentially an accompaniment to food. Bring on the barbecue.

Wild Turkey 17 Years Old
I like this very much, for its complexity and originality. As a bourbon? The useful phrase ‘something else’ comes to mind.

Bowmore 12 Years Old
Glad to see a Bowmore with an age rather than a brand-name.

Adelphi Clynelish 27 Years Old, Cask 2568
A robust, straight-ahead Clynelish, which is a great thing.

Cragganmore 12 Years Old
It’s worth taking the trouble.

Cutty Sark 12 Years Old
Clean, fresh and refreshing. A whisky for the beach?

Eagle Rare 10 Years Old
Slightly less sweet than the last bottling I tasted.

Glen Garioch 10 Years Old
I have always enjoyed Glen Garioch as one of the few peaty whiskies still made in the Highlands. I hope this peaty character does not totally vanish.

Glendullan 12 Years Old
Big in both body and flavours, but restrained and controlled throughout.

Glenfarclas 12 Years Old
Confident. Straightforward. A first-class whisky. Well-rounded. No-nonsense.

Connoisseur's Choice Ardbeg 1990
The palate seemed almost disappointingly cosy, but the wildness of Islay was recalled in the finish.

Connoisseur's Choice Caol Ila 1988
Caol Ila can be a little gin-like. This bottling could be served like a Pimms. Mind you, no gin has such a long finish.

Private Collection Caol Ila 1988 Sherry Wood Finish
Less complex, with the distillery character coming through much more strongly.

Private Collection Glenlivet 1943
The Glenlivet is another whisky that I have encountered at great ages, often past their best. This shows its age only in its raffish, extrovert, confidence.

Private Collection Imperial 1990 Sherry Finish
The flavours hang together better in this version, and I favour it over the port finish (not featured here), but by too narrow a margin to score.

Karuizawa 12 Years Old
I found myself writing some of the same descriptors as I did 15 or 20 years ago. That says something for the consistency of this product.

Lombard Glen Grant 1964
I usually find delicate old Glen Grants to be overwhelmed by oak. This example makes for a mature dram with considerable complexity.

Lombard Springbank 1965
Robust, but lacks the delicacy and structure of the best Springbanks.

The Macallan 12 Years Old
Can a malt be both popular and good? Of course, but not if your taste is determined by elitism. (The same applies to musicians, writers, etc).

Mackillop's Choice Caol Ila 1989, Cask 3322
If Caol Ila can evoke the aroma and flavour of junipers, perhaps it can also suggest olive oil, vine leaves, couscous, baked aubergines. I have had great martinis in Tangier. Next time, a Caol Ila Sour?

Mackillop's Choice Glencadam 1974, Cask 10
Showing its age, but still with the distillery character. Glencadam has its devotees and, with the distillery’s future uncertain, supplies are finite.

Mackillop's Choice Linlithgow 1982, Cask 1336
Very pungent and powerful for a Lowlander. Tending toward harshness. This seems typical of these last Linlithgows.

Mackillop's Choice Tomatin 1975, Cask 4
Perhaps because the distillery was built to make quantity, as a filler, the industry seems universally – but unfairly to deny the possibility of Tomatin making a truly interesting single. I could certainly enjoy this one after dinner.

Old Malt Cask Ardbeg 28 Years Old, The Ardbeggeddon 1972, Sherry Cask
One of the best Ardbegs I have ever tasted. Full range of the distillery’s typical flavours, lyrically combined.

Signatory Bowmore 1975 Cask Strength
Has mellowed with age. I missed the more assertively maritime characteristics in some younger Bowmores.

Signatory Caol Ila 1989, Cask Strength
The more typical of the two 1989 versions. For me, classic Caol Ila, with a touch of peat, noses ahead of the fruitier, more sensuous, expression.

Signatory Clynelish 1989 South African Sherry Butt
A very unusual expression of Clynelish.

Tambowie 12 Years Old
Starts interestingly, but doesn’t seem to go anywhere.

Antiquary 12 Years Old
Feminine. Elegant. Having talked myself into an oriental mind-set, I begin to wonder whether this whisky would accompany some Asian dishes.

Van Winkle 12 Years Old, Lot B
This should obviously be an ingredient of all self-respecting desserts. An accompaniment to them, too. And an after dinner drink. You are in a dry county? So what?

Glenfiddich 12 Years Old, Special Reserve
Glenfiddich has much more roundness of flavour since it switched from 'no age statement' to 12 years.

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