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Whisky Magazine Issue 25 cover image

Whisky Magazine Issue 25

In this issue - Whisky and humour - John Glaser - Cragganmore - Grain whisky tasting

Published on 16/8/2002

5

From the Editor

Regular readers of this magazine are no doubt aware that, if they have the cash to hand, there are distilleries out there simply waiting for a decent offer. This has manifested itself in several we...

By Marcin Miller in the section From the Editor

7

Sorry, no cigar

Michael Jackson faces the legacy of Beano and Dandy

The cigar appeared to be travelling under its own power as it entered the bar. It was a cigare volant as long as a freight train. I remembered waiting half an hour at a crossing in Billings, Montana, ...

By Michael Jackson in the section Musings with Michael Jackson

8

A lochindaal moment

Dave Broom takes a deep breath and plunges headlong into the wonders of Islay

If you stand long enough in an Islay bar the whole world will eventually come and stand next to you. The thought strikes me one night (or was it one week) at the Lochindaal Hotel. Archie McAllister’...

By Dave Broom in the section A dram with Dave Broom

18

A barrel of laughs

Brian Hennigan chuckles his way through a rich supply of Scottish whisky humour

Anyone offered one of the many recent “rare but authentic (honest!)” bottlings that the industry has been throwing at us will know that a sense of humour is an important commodity in the whisky wo...

By Brian Hennigan in the section Whisky Humour

26

A spirited event

James Millard explains whyt the Speyside Whisky Festival is a mean contender in the whisky event stakes

The region of Speyside must certainly be a candidate for the best location in the world in which to hold a whisky festival. Home to nearly half of all distilleries in Scotland, the area between Invern...

By James Millard in the section Speyside

30

Simply misunderstood

Dave Broom sticks up for the overlooked 'oddball' of the whisky world, with some expert help

It was halfway through the tasting for the last issue that it struck me that no-one really understands what a vatted malt is: it’s the poor relation of the whisky industry, not quite a blend, not qu...

By Dave Broom in the section Vatted malts

34

Box clever (John Glaser)

Dave Broom talks to John Glaser, the man exploring the boundaries of whisky

There's three things I look for when I make my whiskies," John Glaser is saying to me. "Flavour, creativity and pleasure: by which I mean moreishness and drinkability." There's 10 glasses in a circle ...

By Dave Broom in the section Whisky Interview

38

Viva Havanas

Happy days are here again, according to cigar guru James Leavey

Several months ago, I was invited to an exhibition in Paris to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the S.T. Dupont lighter. Arriving early, I nipped into a nearby café for a couple of espressos and Mon...

By James Leavey in the section Whisky and Cigars

44

Gone with the wind farms?

With two wind farms proposed for Speyside, Charles Maclean asks: how will they affect this unspoiled area?

Speyside has a unique magic, as many readers of this magazine know. That’s why it’s one of Scotland’s leading visitor attractions; each year over a million people come to ski in the Cairngorms,...

By Charles MacLean in the section Whisky landscapes

48

The St Andrews Crusade

John Lamond describes the miracles worked by Lennie Maguire proprietor of the St Andrew's Bar

The St Andrew's Bar is a real bar. It is what we Scots refer to as a "local", servicing the needs of the drinkers within the local community. Architecturally, it is very similar to many such hostelrie...

By John Lamond in the section Great whisky bars

52

Cragganmore: the reclusive classic

Gavin Smith coaxes this hermit crab distillery out of its shell

Unlike some Speyside distilleries, Cragganmore has to be searched for. It is certainly worth the search, however, as it remains essentially a classic, whitewashed, ‘courtyard’ construction, occupy...

By Gavin D. Smith in the section Distillery Focus

56

A case of Norwegian wood

Martin Moodle conducts his annual survey on what's hot- and good value- in the duty free shops of the world

Duty free retailers have had a tough time lately. First, those laugh-a-minute bureaucrats of Brussels said “RIP duty free” (or at least between European Union countries) back in 1999. And over the...

By Abigail Bosanko in the section Travel retail

59

While oak ageing is an historic tradition, wood management is a far more recent discipline. The benefits of oak ageing have long been appreciated, rather than understood, but it’s only since the 197...

By in the section Whisky Production

77

Journey into the subconscious

Jefferson Chase guides us down through the murky and mysterious world of Japanese author Haruki Murakami

Haruki Murakami, born in 1949 in Kyoto, is Japan's answer to David Lynch and Don DeLillo, a novelist who takes readers into a fantastic world behind the humdrum surface of everyday reality. His 1995 n...

By Jefferson Chase in the section Whisky Literature

82

The real Islay spirit

Brian Palmer, whisky Magazine's first ever tee-total contributor, reveals the Ileach view of Islay's famed annual whisky celebration

It’s a fact not lost on many visitors to Islay that those of us who live here have the ‘benefit’ of being surrounded by malt whisky distilleries, some of the most famous in the world, and that ...

By Brian Palmer in the section Islay

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Whisky Tastings

An Cnoc 13 Years Old, Limited Edition Highland Selection
A pale, shimmery gold dram with flavours one expects from a bigger, darker, whisky. Slightly odd, but enjoyable. Could be a flavoured spirit from a little-known, newly independent republic in Central Asia.

Black Barrel
The name does not imply a dark whisky – the colour is a good full gold – but the barrel may have been well-charred. There is plenty of juicy wood-extract there.

Glenfiddich Havana Reserve, 21 Years Old
The less pronounced rum character of the two Caribbean accented whiskies in this tasting. When you cook, do you want the herbs and spices to announce themselves individually, or to be part of the blend of flavours? David Stewart seems usually to opt for the latter, and does so with great deftness and sophistication.

Adelphi Shannon Grain 1991, 9 Years Old, Cask 10839
For a grain whiskey, it has plenty of flavours, but they do not hang together very well.

Blackadder Arran 1996 Raw Cask
Slightly gin-like. I have preferred bottlings that had more contribution from the wood. A touch of vanilla would round out the flavours.

Blackadder Ben Nevis 1984 Raw Cask
Extraordinarily red colour. The sweetness is almost overwhelming. The ultimate dessert whisky.

Bunnahabhain 1966
The blood-orange hue suggests that this Bunnahabhain will in all senses be more colourful than the gentle 12 Years Old we normally encounter. Sun-dried whisky?

Cadenhead's Invergordon 13 Years Old
Paler than the Royal Mile version, and drier, too.

Cadenhead's North British 21 Years Old
Somewhat one-dimensional.

Cameron Brig
I have long enjoyed this whisky. It's own subtle character shines through, despite the influence of the wood being so obvious.

Campbeltown Loch 25 Years Old
Easily drinkable but with a distinct regional character and plenty of flavour. This could become one of my favourite blends.

Caol Ila 12 Years Old
Of the three expressions in this tasting, this is the most rounded and balanced. All the classic Caol Ila aromas and flavours are there, with no sharp edges. Vatted for drinkability?

Caol Ila 18 Years Old
The most vegetal and assertive of the three expressions. Lots of contribution from the wood.

Caol Ila Cask Strength
The most fruity, fresh, peppery and lively of the three expressions. I loved all three. Scoring was a tough call.

Craigellachie Hotel of Speyside Glenfarclas 2001 Single Cask Bottling
In each corner, a fighter rather than a boxer. Not much refinement, but plenty of punch.

Glen Garioch 1985, 16 Years Old, Sherry Butt
I have always had a quiet fancy for this malt. It has a lot character: demonstrated here in the way it stands up to such heavy sherry.

Glen Moray 1974, Distillery Manager's Choice
The aromas remind me of a young woman I tried to bed in the early 1970s. She bit my tongue when I did something to offend her feminist ethic.

Greenore 8 Years Old
Bourbon Lite might taste like this.

Hart Brothers Ben Nevis 35 Years Old, Sherry Wood
The best Ben Nevis I have tasted.

Lombard Bowmore 1989
For a relatively young Bowmore, this seems somewhat tired.

Royal Mile Whiskies Invergordon 22 Years Old
Appetising. Some length and complexity.

Scott's Selection North British 1974
A pleasant summer whisky.

Scott's Selection North of Scotland, 1963
Very rich for a grain whisky. Not much dimension. No flavour peaks.

Signatory Caledonian 1976, 23 Years Old
Despite their lightness, some grains can stand up to long periods in wood.

Signatory Cambus 1964, 31 Years Old
A good example of a single grain as a pleasant dram, though that is true of several in this tasting. If someone gave me this whisky in a bar, I would enjoy it, but I have yet to find a single grain that has the complexity of a great malt. That seems unlikely to happen.

Springbank 12 Years Old, Rum Cask
More rounded and elegant than the earlier, 10 Years Old rum cask. I enjoy the Springbank rum cask whiskies very much, though not at the expense of the more traditional expressions.

Wilson & Morgan The Macallan 1990, Marsala Finish
The estery Macallan notes are as brassy as the Basie band on top form.

Cooper's Choice Glen Albyn 1974, 28 Years Old
Fuller in flavours, and sweeter, than I remember Glen Albyn.

Old Malt Cask Laphroaig 1985 17 Years Old
This seems far less lively and rounded than the 1987 whisky bottled in 1992.

Wilson & Morgan Macduff 1989 Port Finish
My guess is that the whisky was initially less rich and malty than the "official" Glen Deveron bottlings. The port finish adds some roundness and interest.

Compass Box Hedonism
Compass Box knows how to stay on course. Its whiskies are well-judged and consistent.

Girvan Single Grain 1964
Black Barrel with more age, more wood.

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