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Issue 26   |  Buy this issue   |  Other issues
Whisky Magazine Issue 26

Whisky Magazine Issue 26

Published on 16/10/2002

Whisky Tastings

Speyburn 21 Years Old

Very restrained, but lovely gentle peat smoke......

Royal Salute 21 Years Old

After dinner, I would usually think of a malt, but have.....

Wilson & Morgan Longmorn 1990 Marsala Finish

This highly respected whisky lives a blamelessly quiet .....

Auchentoshan 21 Years Old

Gently restorative. Subtleties gradually become apparen.....

Yamazaki 1991 Bourbon Cask

An interesting interplay of flavours. Comes to rather a.....

Ballantine's 21 Years Old

My personal taste is more robust, but I am in awe of th.....

Hart Brothers Balmenach 1972, 30 Years Old Port Wood

Very distinctive. Bring on the chicken mole......

Blackadder Bowmore 1989

All the elements of Bowmore, and plenty of alcohol, but.....

Blackadder Longmorn 1973

This mahogany dram looks like a winter warmer, and that.....

Cadenhead's Allt-a-Bhainne 1992, 9 Years Old

A rare opportunity to serve this summery whisky......

Cadenhead's Glencraig 1981, 21 Years Old

Pleasant, sociable. With mint tea and Moroccan food?.....

Ben Nevis Dew of the Ben 21 Years Old

Somewhat lacking in complexity. For the drinker who wan.....

Glen Garioch 21 Years Old

A reminder that a distillery with its own maltings gain.....

Glenfarclas 21 Years Old

A straightforward Speyside classic. Also big enough to .....

Glengoyne 21 Years Old

If this were a Lowland malt, it would be a star. As a H.....

Golden Horse Chichibu 8 Years Old

Well-balanced. Elegant......

Golden Horse Chichibu 12 Years Old

Bittersweet, sophisticated......

Golden Horse Chichibu 10 Years Old

Fresh, lively, flirtatious but slightly tart and astrin.....

Rare Malts Brora 21 Years Old

A good example of Brora as a distinctive maritime malt......

Hart Brothers Glen Grant 1972, 29 Years Old Sherrywood

Glen Grant was one of the first malts to be bottled as .....

Karuizawa 17 Years Old

Pleasant as a ‘dessert whisky’, but lacks complexity......

Lombard Rosebank 1989

A good example. Such a love potion, from a distillery t.....

Lombard Springbank 1991

Jumps and bites. This is the young Springbank, not yet .....

Mercian 1987 Single Cask

More complex than the younger vintage......

Mercian Single Cask , 1991

Pleasant. Could be slightly rounder......

Miyagikyou Single Cask Sendai, 1990

The orangey colour suggests some sherry. Nikka’s Sendai.....

Yoichi Single Cask, 1986

The typical fruitiness of the Yoichi whiskies, but less.....

Yoichi Single Cask, 1990

A big whisky, with some of the smokiness I remember......

Signatory Caol Ila 1991, Port Wood

I would like to try this with lamb......

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Yoichi, 116.1

A whole sequence of flavours emerges in this vintage. T.....

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Yoichi, 116.4

Lots happening. Nice interplay of elements......

Speyburn 16 Years Old

One of the most assertive, flavoursome examples of Spey.....

Speyburn 21 Years Old

Full of flavour and interest, but the sherry and oak ve.....

Yamazaki 12 Years Old

A pioneering malt in Japan, for which Suntory deserve g.....

Yamazaki 18 Years Old

Well-balanced. Full of flavour......

Yamazaki Sherry Wood, 1982

Any whisky-lover would be glad of the chance to taste t.....

The Dalmore 21 Years Old

Seductive, but it is all done with great finesse......

The Glenlivet 1959 Cellar Collection

Vivid descriptors, but the flavours are very restrained.....

The Glenlivet 21 Years Old Archive

A first-class malt, but I would like a little more stru.....

Yoichi Single Cask, 1989

Again, very fruity, but lacking in other flavours......

Rare Malts Caol Ila 21 Years Old

Confident. Austere......

Cooper's Choice Dallas Dhu 1970, 32 Years Old

Delicious Dallas Dhu does it again. How long can this g.....

Cooper's Choice Clynelish 1990, 12 Years Old, Port Finish

Not one of the peaty vintages, and would have benefited.....

Old Malt Cask Port Ellen 1978 24 Years Old

This one blew up a storm for me......

The Balvenie PortWood 21 Years Old

This expression beautifully highlights the qualities of.....

Rare Malts Benrinnes 21 Years Old

One of Speyside's secret delights. But a hard whisky to.....

Yamazaki Oak Cask , 1979

Scores points for its robust distinctiveness......

Yamazaki Sherry Cask, 1984

A huge whisky but overwhelmingly fruity and alcoholic......

Yamazaki Bourbon Cask, 1993

Lots happening, lively, enjoyable......

Contents

p5

From the Editor

At last this year’s worst kept secret in whisky can be revealed. Andrew Symington has purchased Edradour Distillery from Chivas Brothers. The major frustration of publishing is that of schedules and d...

By Marcin Miller in the section From the Editor

p7

The heat of the night

Michal Jackson fights the cold with Rod Steiger

The last time I drank liquor out of a bottle was with Rod Steiger. The drinks cabinet in our stretch limo contained a fifth of Wild Turkey. I would have made a tasting note, but I was distracted by ou...

By Michael Jackson in the section Musings with Michael Jackson

p8

Dave and Goliath

Dave Broom speculate on the fate of the smaller whisky brands faced with today's globalised marketplace

The whisky industry is always rife with rumour, most of which is to be disbelieved. After a few drams, two and two often makes 25. Rival firms are in regular contact due to blending requirements, and ...

By Dave Broom in the section A dram with Dave Broom

p16

Independent's day

Dave Broom reports on the challenges facing a determined new breed of independent bottle-distillers

Question: What do you buy the independent bottler who has it all? Answer? A distillery. Signatory’s recent acquisition of Edradour is the latest in a series of purchases by independent bottlers. Gordo...

By Dave Broom in the section Independent Bottlers

p21

Traces of the buffalo (Buffalo Trace)

Stuart Maclean Ramsay enjoys a whiskey tasting and tour at the imprssive Buffalo Trace Disteilery in Franklin County, Kentucky

It’s not every afternoon you’re surrounded by 300 years of whiskey know-how. But that’s where I was on a humid Kentucky afternoon in July, sampling whiskeys with eight bourbon-making stalwarts in the ...

By in the section Distillery Focus

p26

That's the spirit-

Mystery visitor goes to Islay

There are all kinds of ghosts on Islay. The land is scattered with abandoned crofts and deserted farms; ruined chapels and burial grounds are littered apparently at random, the settlements which gave ...

By in the section Visitor Guides

p34

A rye character

Stuart Maclean Ramsay chats to Lincolm Henderson, a whiskey vetern with 37 years of knowledge and experience

For a gentleman who has sampled whiskey from around 400,000 barrels, Lincoln Wesley Henderson looks mighty fine. Trim and professorial, with silver hair and goatee beard, Lincoln exudes the confidence...

By Stuart MacLean Ramsay in the section Whisky Hero

p44

The quiet men

Dave Broom talks to Davied Stewar, the unassuming yet innovative force shaping the Wiliam Grant's portfolio, and long-term colleague, Whisky Records controller Eric Robertson

Glasgow in the early ‘60s. An industrial city, its buildings soiled by the grime from the chimneys, a city with starlings blackening its skies every dusk, a place where ships still crowded the Clyde, ...

By Dave Broom in the section Whisky Hero

p48

A class of their own

Tom Bruce-Gardyne looks into the story of the Haig empire

To judge by the number of top hats and tails featured in their early advertising, many brands of Scotch whisky were obsessed with the Establishment. It was as though they craved nothing more than to j...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne in the section Whisky Dynasty

p52

A drop of the soft stuff

Ian Wisniewski assesses the effect of the water used in whisky production and as mixer on the drink we love

Explaining differences between single malts on the basis of the water used was always very convenient. Embodying a host of ecovalues, the image of a bubbling brook is far more evocative than explainin...

By Ian Wisniewski in the section Whisky Tasting

p56

From the horse's mouth

It's official Cooking with whisky is very much in vogue. Martine Nouet talks to experts on the subject and discovers a truly original new sauce

Some chefs are blessed. They can use the whisky produced or matured on the premises in their cooking. Both Arran Distillery and the Scotch Malt Whisky Society insist that whisky is as appealing on the...

By Martine Nouet in the section Whisky and Food

p59

Waugh on war

Jefferson Chase examines the love of drinking and 'cultivated comic sarcasm' expressed in the work of an ex-teacher for drunkenness-Evelyn Waugh

Evelyn Waugh is required reading for fans of drinking and cultivated comic sarcasm. Born in 1903 to a literary family, Waugh by his own admission wasted an Oxford education and was pitched out of an e...

By Jefferson Chase in the section Whisky Literature

p82

Haydock spelling it out

Flying in the face of controversy, John Haydock takes on the establishment with his new book

As my Editor has chosen to reject my latest offering, on the grounds that ‘it’s too difficult for you’, I offer by way of a stop-gap alternative an excerpt from my latest forthcoming publication, Hayd...

By John Haydock in the section An acidic finish

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