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Whisky Magazine Issue 26

Whisky Magazine Issue 26

Whisky Magazine Issue 26

In this issue - Independent Bottlers - David Stewart - Buffalo Trace - Japanese Whiskies

Published October 2002

From the Editor
At last this year's worst kept secret in whisky can be revealed. Andrew Symington has purchased Edradour Distillery from Chivas Brothers. The major frustration of publishing is that of schedules and d...

October 2002, Issue 26, page 5

The heat of the night
Michal Jackson fights the cold with Rod Steiger

October 2002, Issue 26, page 7

Dave and Goliath
Dave Broom speculate on the fate of the smaller whisky brands faced with today's globalised marketplace

October 2002, Issue 26, page 8

Independent's day
Dave Broom reports on the challenges facing a determined new breed of independent bottle-distillers

October 2002, Issue 26, page 16

Traces of the buffalo (Buffalo Trace)
Stuart Maclean Ramsay enjoys a whiskey tasting and tour at the imprssive Buffalo Trace Disteilery in Franklin County, Kentucky

October 2002, Issue 26, page 21

That's the spirit-
Mystery visitor goes to Islay

October 2002, Issue 26, page 26

A rye character
Stuart Maclean Ramsay chats to Lincoln Henderson, a whiskey vetern with 37 years of knowledge and experience

October 2002, Issue 26, page 34

The quiet men
Dave Broom talks to Davied Stewart, the unassuming yet innovative force shaping the William Grant's portfolio, and long-term colleague, Whisky Records controller Eric Robertson

October 2002, Issue 26, page 44

A class of their own
Tom Bruce-Gardyne looks into the story of the Haig empire

October 2002, Issue 26, page 48

A drop of the soft stuff
Ian Wisniewski assesses the effect of the water used in whisky production and as mixer on the drink we love

October 2002, Issue 26, page 52

From the horse's mouth
It's official Cooking with whisky is very much in vogue. Martine Nouet talks to experts on the subject and discovers a truly original new sauce

October 2002, Issue 26, page 56

Waugh on war
Jefferson Chase examines the love of drinking and 'cultivated comic sarcasm' expressed in the work of an ex-teacher for drunkenness-Evelyn Waugh

October 2002, Issue 26, page 59

Haydock spelling it out
Flying in the face of controversy, John Haydock takes on the establishment with his new book

October 2002, Issue 26, page 82

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

Rare Malts Brora 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 56.90%
8 A good example of Brora as a distinctive maritime malt. Very appetising indeed, but quite different from Talisker, for example.

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

Royal Salute 21 Years Old
Blended - Scotland - 40.00%
8 After dinner, I would usually think of a malt, but have long enjoyed the unashamed luxuriousness of this blend. This example seems fractionally less voluptuous than I remember, but my memories may be ...

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Yoichi, 116.1
Single Malt - Japan - 56.60%
8 A whole sequence of flavours emerges in this vintage. These are flavours I have found before in Nikka whiskies, but they have not been especially evident elsewhere in this flight.

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

Scotch Malt Whisky Society Yoichi, 116.4
Single Malt - Japan - 64.90%
8 Lots happening. Nice interplay of elements.

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

The Balvenie PortWood 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 40.00%
8 This expression beautifully highlights the qualities of The Balvenie as a whisky that is full of rich flavours yet gentler and less robust than, for example, Glenfarclas or The Macallan.

Whisky Magazine - Editors Choice - Winner

The Glenlivet 1959 Cellar Collection
Single Malt - Scotland - 41.70%
8 Vivid descriptors, but the flavours are very restrained. A most elegant whisky.

Whisky Magazine - Recommended - Winner

Cooper's Choice Dallas Dhu 1970, 32 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
8 Delicious Dallas Dhu does it again. How long can this go on?

Whisky Magazine - Recommended - Winner

Glenfarclas 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
8 A straightforward Speyside classic. Also big enough to benefit from considerable age.

Whisky Magazine - Recommended - Winner

Speyburn 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 58.50%
8 Full of flavour and interest, but the sherry and oak verge on being overwhelming.

Auchentoshan 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
7 Gently restorative. Subtleties gradually become apparent. Not quite as complex as I remember it.

Ballantine's 21 Years Old
Blended - Scotland - 43.00%
8 My personal taste is more robust, but I am in awe of the precision and refinement of the older Ballantine's.

Ben Nevis Dew of the Ben 21 Years Old
Blended - Scotland - 43.00%
7 Somewhat lacking in complexity. For the drinker who wants an easily drinkable whisky with some maturity.

Blackadder Bowmore 1989
Single Malt - Scotland - 63.30%
7 All the elements of Bowmore, and plenty of alcohol, but extra dimension.

Blackadder Longmorn 1973
Single Malt - Scotland - 56.90%
7 This mahogany dram looks like a winter warmer, and that is how I would use it.

Cadenhead's Allt-a-Bhainne 1992, 9 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 59.40%
7 A rare opportunity to serve this summery whisky.

Cadenhead's Glencraig 1981, 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 56.20%
7 Pleasant, sociable. With mint tea and Moroccan food?

Cooper's Choice Clynelish 1990, 12 Years Old, Port Finish
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
7 Not one of the peaty vintages, and would have benefited from some other element to lift the creaminess.

Glen Garioch 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
7 A reminder that a distillery with its own maltings gains a layer of character. So long as the maltings is working.

Glengoyne 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
7 If this were a Lowland malt, it would be a star. As a Highlander, it gets lost.

Golden Horse Chichibu 10 Years Old
Single Malt - Japan - 43.00%
7 Fresh, lively, flirtatious but slightly tart and astringent.

Golden Horse Chichibu 12 Years Old
Single Malt - Japan - 50.00%
6 Bittersweet, sophisticated.

Golden Horse Chichibu 8 Years Old
Single Malt - Japan - 43.00%
7 Well-balanced. Elegant.

Hart Brothers Balmenach 1972, 30 Years Old Port Wood
Single Malt - Scotland - 50.10%
7 Very distinctive. Bring on the chicken mole.

Hart Brothers Glen Grant 1972, 29 Years Old Sherrywood
Single Malt - Scotland - 53.60%
7 Glen Grant was one of the first malts to be bottled as a single malt, in the days when light-tasting spirits were often filled into heavy sherry casks. I have always felt that this overwhelms the spir...

Karuizawa 17 Years Old
Single Malt - Japan - 40.00%
7 Pleasant as a ‘dessert whisky', but lacks complexity.

Lombard Rosebank 1989
Single Malt - Scotland - 50.00%
8 A good example. Such a love potion, from a distillery that no one loved enough to keep alive.

Lombard Springbank 1991
Single Malt - Scotland - 50.00%
8 Jumps and bites. This is the young Springbank, not yet the mature sophisticate.

Mercian 1987 Single Cask
Single Malt - Japan - 58.70%
7 More complex than the younger vintage.

Mercian Single Cask, 1991
Single Malt - Japan - 62.80%
7 Pleasant. Could be slightly rounder.

Miyagikyo Single Cask Sendai, 1990
Single Malt - Japan - 60.60%
7 The orangey colour suggests some sherry. Nikka's Sendai distillery has in this instance produced a nuttier, maltier style of whisky than Yoichi.

Old Malt Cask Port Ellen 1978 24 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 50.00%
8 This one blew up a storm for me.

Rare Malts Benrinnes 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 60.40%
7 One of Speyside's secret delights. But a hard whisky to know. Big flavours, but tightly combined and unyielding.

Rare Malts Caol Ila 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 61.30%
8 Confident. Austere.

Signatory Caol Ila 1991, Port Wood
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
8 I would like to try this with lamb.

Speyburn 16 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
7 One of the most assertive, flavoursome examples of Speyburn I have tasted. A pretty whisky from a pretty distillery.

Speyburn 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 60.20%
8 Very restrained, but lovely gentle peat smoke.

The Dalmore 21 Years Old
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
8 Seductive, but it is all done with great finesse.

The Glenlivet 21 Years Old Archive
Single Malt - Scotland - 43.00%
8 A first-class malt, but I would like a little more structure and style.

Wilson & Morgan Longmorn 1990 Marsala Finish
Single Malt - Scotland - 46.00%
7 This highly respected whisky lives a blamelessly quiet life near Elgin. One little drink of Marsala and the Lossie goes all Mediterranean.

Yamazaki 12 Years Old
Single Malt - Japan - 43.00%
7 A pioneering malt in Japan, for which Suntory deserve great credit. In its early days, it was rounded and delicate, as though wary of offending anyone. Now it is more intense, confident and elegant.

Yamazaki 18 Years Old
Single Malt - Japan - 43.00%
8 Well-balanced. Full of flavour.

World Whiskies Awards 2011 - World's Best Single Malt Whisky - Winner

Yamazaki 1984
Single Malt - Japan - 63.00%
7 A huge whisky but overwhelmingly fruity and alcoholic.

Yamazaki 1991 Bourbon Cask
Single Malt - Japan - 60.00%
7 An interesting interplay of flavours. Comes to rather an abrupt halt.

Yamazaki Bourbon Cask, 1993
Single Malt - Japan - 59.00%
7 Lots happening, lively, enjoyable.

Yamazaki Oak Cask , 1979
Single Malt - Japan - 58.00%
7 Scores points for its robust distinctiveness.

Yamazaki Sherry Wood, 1982
Single Malt - Japan - 45.00%
7 Any whisky-lover would be glad of the chance to taste this, even if it is on the woody side.

Yoichi Single Cask, 1986
Single Malt - Japan - 61.30%
7 The typical fruitiness of the Yoichi whiskies, but less peat than I remember.

Yoichi Single Cask, 1989
Single Malt - Japan - 60.80%
7 Again, very fruity, but lacking in other flavours.

Yoichi Single Cask, 1990
Single Malt - Japan - 61.50%
7 A big whisky, with some of the smokiness I remember.

Authors this issue

 

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