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Whisky Magazine Issue 27 cover image

Whisky Magazine Issue 27

In this issue - Andrew Usher - Amateur Blender - Bunnahabhain - Speyside Tasting

Published on 16/11/2002

5

From the Editor

The best way to sell booze is, in my opinion, to let people try it. However, because of the potency of our chosen spirit, sampling needs to take place under controlled circumstances. And let’s not f...

By Mairi MacDonald in the section From the Editor

7

Joe and the dragon

Michael Jackson reports from the centre of the universe

Jumping Joe Danno’s last voicemail contained four worrying words: “Retirement home” and “Las Vegas”. He sounded uncharacteristically anxious, and that seemed to have made the machine nervous...

By Michael Jackson in the section Musings with Michael Jackson

8

The pleasure principle

Dave Broom considers the reasons for whisky's lack of popularity among young people in norhern Europe, and what should be done about it

It was in Jerez where it was brought home to me. We’d been out for a meal and a few bottles of fino had been dispatched, leading us on to a nightcap … or three, which is how I came to be standing ...

By Dave Broom in the section A dram with Dave Broom

14

Edinburgh's Whisky Fringe

John Morton recounts his experience on the Royal Mile.

The courtyard of Edinburgh’s City Chambers seemed like a sanctuary amidst the sea of madness that is The Royal Mile in August. I climbed the grand staircase up to the the inaugural Whisky Fringe, wh...

By John Morton in the section Whisky launches

18

The Bowmore 1964 Fino cask: a happy twist of fate

Martine Nouet shares her impressions of three rare 1964 Bowmore releases

Bowmore is taking a step back in time with the release of its last remaining casks filled in 1964, a year made legendary by the success of Black Bowmore, now a big auction hit. The initial launch of t...

By Martine Nouet in the section Whisky launches

18

The spirit of country-and-western

Jefferson Chase explains how you can't take the whisley out of country-and-western

To say that whiskey has influenced country-and-western is like saying that Catholicism influences the Pope. The list of country-and-western drinking songs runs from Cigareets, Whusky and Wild, Wild Wo...

By Jefferson Chase in the section Whisky Days Out

22

Hey, big blender

Marcin Miller visits Colin Scott, Master Blender at Chiva Brothers to learn about the subtle art of alchemy

Let’s avoid the stuff you all know about already. The stuff about blending being the backbone of the industry, that blending accounts for up to 95% (estimates vary) of total whisky sales and so on. ...

By Marcin Miller in the section Whisky Production

28

The godfather of blending

Gavin. D. Smith examines the legacy of the philanthropic Andrew Usher and sons, blending pineers

On 23rd August of this year, 22 of Scotland’s leading whisky blenders assembled at Kyndal’s Glasgow headquarters, each bearing a sample of specially blended 16-year-old whisky. The samples were du...

By Gavin D. Smith in the section Whisky Production

34

Walk on the wild side

Dave Broom and company survived a hike up the Paps of Jra to tell the tale. Just

Sheltering from the rain and the wind in the doorway at 7am, I was already wondering if this was such a great idea. The storm had been blowing for most of the previous two days, the wind had groaned a...

By Dave Broom in the section Whisky Travel

38

Bottling it up

Martin Isark uncovers the conspiract: whisky does in fact evolve in the bottle, not just the barrel

It happens all the time. Suddenly, new information on food, health, exercise –whatever – confounds all our long-held beliefs, making it necessary to readjust. And it’s happened with whisky. For...

By Martin Isark in the section Whisky Production

44

The softer side of Islay (Bunnahabhain)

Bunnahabhain is the foil to Islay's claymore, finds Ian Buxton

I once threw my dinner in the sea at Bunnahabhain. Staying at the distillery, I befriended some local fishermen and swapped the contents of their creel (two fine edible crabs) for luxury shortbread. ...

By Ian Buxton in the section Distillery Focus

48

Golden promise

Ian Wisniewski looks into that vital ingredient in whisky production so often overlooked-barley

The main talking point is always a distillery’s water source, with the influence of the stills, peating levels and wood policy more recent additions to the debate. But what about barley, which seems...

By Ian Wisniewski in the section Whisky Production

52

Spirit of inspiration

Martine Nouet introduces two superb whisky recipes courtesy of innovators from the famous grouse experience and trhe Macallan

Continuing with our mouthwatering tour of distillery restaurants and catering, hungry visitors will not regret calling in at Glenturret Distillery, near Crieff. The distillery has undergone a few chan...

By Martine Nouet in the section Whisky and Food

61

Mistress of satire

Jefferson Chase looks at a female writer and renowned wit not scared of a drop of more of the hard stuff: Dorothy Parker

The pantheon of female whisky writers isn’t large, a fact attributable less to Y chromosomes than to socialisation. Dorothy Parker is the witty exception. Born in 1893 in New Jersey to Scottish-Jewi...

By Jefferson Chase in the section Whisky Literature

82

To the letter

John Haydock id rather sharply reminded of hid 'contractual obligations' to whisky Magazine

From P. T. Ale, The Archiestown Office of Messrs Sparge, Badger & Joe: Dear Mr Haydock, Further to our earlier conversations, it is with regret that I must write to you to remind you of your strict o...

By John Haydock in the section An acidic finish

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Whisky Tastings

Glenlossie 10 Years Old
Doesn’t deliver the promise of the nose. Surprisingly smooth for a fairly high alcohol strength.

Inchgower 14 Years Old
A bit restrained initially, then unveils a charming vibrant sweetness. Well-balanced.

Tomintoul 10 Years Old
Quite a muscular Speysider. The perfect dram to buck you up after a woodland walk mushroom-picking on a cold November day.

Adelphi Highland Park 16 Years Old
This bottling does not have the heathery profile of the official bottlings. Drink with water.

Adelphi Teaninich 31 Years Old
Well-matured, amazing for its age.

Blackadder Rosebank 1992
Far from Rosebank at its best. Fiery.

Cadenhead's Ben Nevis 1986, 16 Years Old
Hard to guess at the high alcohol strength from the nose. Not the usual big, oily Ben Nevis character. A pleasant fruitiness keeps the sweet notes dominant.

Cadenhead's Caperdonich 1977, 24 Years Old
Heavily sherried. Rich and full-bodied but the distillery character is hidden by the wood. For the sherry fanatic.

Chieftain's Choice Bladnoch 18 Years Old Sherry Wood
A distinguished expression of sweet oloroso, even if it seems a bit ostentatious on the palate. For after-dinner enjoyment.

Chieftain's Choice Clynelish 13 Years Old
So different to the Douglas Laing Clynelish. The perfect whisky with farm cheeses.

Chieftain's Choice Rosebank 1991 Sherry Finish, 11 Years Old
An attractive medium-bodied Rosebank. The sherry finish has added complexity to delicacy. Some exotic notes which makes it really appetising.

Old Malt Cask Auchentoshan 1978
Promising nose. Palate hard to tame, disappointing.

Old Malt Cask Clynelish 1971, 30 Years Old
There’s more in the nose than in the finish. A really characterful malt. Interesting. This is one of the more medicinal expressions of Clynelish I have come across.

Old Malt Cask Talisker 20 Years Old, Director’s Tactical
The distillery character is buried far below the wood. One can hardly detect even a light puff of smoke. Water does not help.

Glen Deveron 10 Years Old
Too monolithic. No variety. The nose opens up after a while though.

Glenfiddich 12 Years Old, Special Reserve
Easy-going, fresh and fruity, but the palate does not reflect the liveliness of the nose.

Glen Spey 12 Years Old
Definitely Speyside. Elegant interplay between fruit and malt.

Gordon & MacPhail The Macallan 1993 Speymalt
Another unusual Macallan. Well-balanced. No sherry overload. Second-or third-fill maybe. Or a fino cask?

Old Masters Bladnoch 1992
A two-sided malt, with two different expressions on the nose and on the palate. The alcohol needs to be tamed with water.

Old Masters Glenturret 1986
As refreshing as a herbal tea but much more rewarding and fulfilling. Would suit a leg of lamb with mint sauce.

Knockando 1990
Too mild to hold its own against the wood.

Linkwood 12 Years Old
Satisfies nose and palate equally. To be opened and enjoyed at Christmas.

Mannochmore 12 Years Old
Rich, bonnie and complex. Not showing off, just beaming.

Montgomerie’s The Macallan 1989 Single Cask
Macallan in disguise. Impossible to recognise blind. So unusual but really attractive.

Signatory Port Ellen 1978 Port Wood
Typical fragrant, alert Port Ellen, but the port finish lends more fruit and an amazing orangey-pinkish colour.

Speyburn 10 Years Old
Quite a pleasant pre-dinner dram, with light nibbles perhaps. A little shy though. Would yield more at a higher alcoholic strength or in a few years.

The Glenlivet 12 Years Old
A pleasant any-time dram. Very refreshing.

The Balvenie PortWood 1989
Not the depth of the PortWood 21 Years Old, but thoroughly enjoyable.

Blackadder Isle of Jura 1988
Nose better than palate. A tired cask?

Dufftown 15 Years Old
To be served with an apple and hazelnut crumble. Classic, nothing really exciting, but a good Speyside character.

Glen Moray 12 Years Old
A sweet, soft and mellow fruitiness. Too much is too much sometimes.

Pittyvaich 12 Years Old
You need to be sherry-mad to love this. Water releases more pleasant fruitcake notes on the nose but more harshness on the palate.

Glenfiddich Caoran Reserve, 12 Years Old
A more sprightly Glenfiddich than the standard 12. Thirst-quenching. Peatiness and the smoked finish aren't as 'distinct' as the label suggests.

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