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Whisky Magazine Issue 29 cover image

Whisky Magazine Issue 29

In this issue - James Bond - Cooley Distillery - Indian Whisky - Festival Reviews

Published on 24/3/2003

5

The Miller's Tale

Another fascinating 12 months in the world of whisky, then. The trend for small independents buying distilleries from large multinationals goes on. Announcements of new smaller-scale distilling projec...

By Marcin Miller in the section The Miller's Tale

7

Local Hero

Michael Jackson fulfils a fantasy

Like most small boys, I wanted to be a big man. Specifically, I wanted to be a big man called Dave Valentine. Why didn’t they pick him for England? “Because he is Scottish,” explained my Dad. A...

By Michael Jackson in the section Musings with Michael Jackson

8

A real Japa-knees up

Tequila, Italian death drinks, replica pubs and bad country and western …
Dave Broom discovers the surreal side of Japan

Do you eat many potatoes in Scotlando?” As a conversation opener it was up there with the very best. The fact that it came from a geiko who had just christened me Antonio and was now ordering a rou...

By Dave Broom in the section A dram with Dave Broom

17

From monsters to minnows

Pip Hills looks at who owns what in the world of whisky

A friend of mine, who teaches economics at a university, tells me that he often uses the Scotch whisky industry as an example of what he calls the post-modern economy. I don’t much like the descrip...

By Pip Hills in the section Distillery Focus

20

Big in Japan

Whisky Live Japan goes from strength to strength and is getting weirder as it does so. Marcin Miller mixes it with Tokyo’s finest

A good cocktail is all in the shaking, as one Tokyo bar owner took great delight in explaining to me during my recent visit to Japan. Exactly the same ingredients, shaken in the same quantities but i...

By Marcin Miller in the section Whisky Events

24

A true boon in Kentucky

The Kentucky Bourbon Festival is one of the year’s whiskey highlights. Damian Riley-Smith brought back a suitcase full of fond memories

The rollercoaster ride that is the Kentucky Bourbon Festival more than met expectations yet again. Kentucky, often mistakenly left off the US tourist map, is the heartland of hospitality, subtle beaut...

By Damian Riley-Smith in the section Whisky Events

26

A taste of India

The market for whisky in India is huge. Tom Bruce-Gardyne examines its colourful, unconventional nature

Thank God for Spain!” was a cry that echoed round the boardrooms of the great whisky corporations in the 1990s. With the American market in fullscale retreat, dropping by six million cases that deca...

By Tom Bruce-Gardyne in the section Indian Whisky

30

The King of Cooley

Dr John Teeling is teetotal, he runs on caffeine, and he’s making waves in the world of Irish whiskey. Peter Mulryan talks to the man behind the company

Depending on which part of the whiskey industry you work in, time is either your friend or your enemy. To a master blender, it’s a decade before some whiskeys start to get interesting, on the other...

By Peter Mulryan in the section Irish Whiskey

34. 35

The name's malt... Single Malt...

James Bond is drinking whisky again. More specifically, he’s drinking Talisker – and the relationship is benefiting both of them. Dominic Roskrow reports

The bar’s crowded and noisy when Bond enters, but he is noticed immediately. He is dressed perfectly, tux and bowtie spotless, hair groomed to perfection. His target – in more ways than one – i...

By Dominic Roskrow in the section Whisky and Film

38

Waste not, want not

Gavin D. Smith takes a look at the by-products of whisky-making, and where they end up

As whisky consumers, we give a great deal of thought to what goes into our drink, but very little thought to what does not. Yet were it not for effective management of the by-products of distilling, t...

By Gavin D. Smith in the section Whisky and the environment

44

Whisky Live 2003!

Rare and delicious whiskies are just waiting to be discovered

Whisky Live 2003 runs on 7th and 8th March at the Royal Horticultural Halls, London SW1, and is the United Kingdom’s premier whisky tasting event. Organised by Whisky Magazine, last year it attracte...

By Brigid James in the section Whisky Live

47

Bile with Style

Jefferson Chase on a sharp-penned Canadian who both writes and drinks whisky – Mordecai Richler

In 1899 a man named Robert Barr wrote an essay arguing that Canadians couldn’t write literature because they drank too much whisky. Ninety-nine years later, Jewish-Canadian author Mordecai Richler p...

By Jefferson Chase in the section Whisky Literature

49

Lift the winter spirits

Martine Nouet argues that one of the advantages of bad weather is that you can drink strong spirits to keep out the cold

Eveybody fights the rigours of winter in their own manner. Modern conveniences have spoilt us with houses that are (too) well-heated. But think of the old times when peat or log fires were the only wa...

By Martine Nouet in the section Whisky Cocktails

58

As esay as one, two, three?

Peter Mulryan looks at the increasingly rare art of triple distillation

The theory is simple. You put your wash into a pot still and gently turn up the heat. Alcohol boils at a lower temperature than water, so it’s the first to evaporate. This liquid is collected and th...

By Peter Mulryan in the section Whisky Production

82

Bottle ageing...so where's the science?

In Issue 27, Martin Isark argued that whisky aged in the bottle. His views have provoked a storm of opposition. Here Peter Wood makes the case against Isark’s theory

So, Martin Isark has uncovered an industry conspiracy to conceal from us drinkers the fact that our malt changes in the bottle? He is in good company, if a little late in the piece, for back in 1967, ...

By Peter Woods in the section Whisky Production

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Whisky Tastings

Auchentoshan Three Wood
Matching Auchentoshan with Pedro Ximinez is like putting Benny Lynch in the ring with Marciano. What do you get? It’s unimaginable, but in whisky it works.

Bladnoch 10 Years Old
Lots of aromas and flavours, but lacks structure. Curiously flat.

Jameson 18 Years Old Master Selection
Robustly sexy. I always enjoy Jameson, but I really relished coming to grips with this one.

Rosebank 12 Years Old
Relatively young, but beginning to weary nonetheless. Perhaps this tiredness is caused by worry about the future. A feminine whisky that has lost the first bloom of youth. Snatch a kiss while you can.

Rare Malts St Magdalene 1998 19 Years Old
For a ghost, quite aggressive.

Yamazaki 1993 Bourbon Cask
The Yamazaki I know well; but with a more obvious and robust hint of bourbon character.

Yamazaki 1980 Japanese White Oak Cask
The most herbal and spicy of these three bottlings, and the most distinctive.

Yamazaki 1991 Sherry Cask
Can the elegant Yamazaki whisky stand up to heavy sherry? In this case, yes. A dexterously balanced malt.

Bruichladdich Legacy 1966 Vintage
An especially characterful 'laddie from its sunny hue and lean, firm body to its touch of tartness.

Bruichladdich 1970
Lively, expressive, enjoyable.

Bruichladdich 1984 Vintage
A more familiar Islay style, with plenty of pep.

Cadenhead's Imperial Glenlivet 1977, 24 Years Old
A robust whisky that deserves more exposure.

Chieftain's Choice Caol Ila 1990
The more Caol Ila makes itself available the more I seem to enjoy it.

Old Masters Clynelish 1989
Very much in line with recent bottlings. Not especially peaty, but crisp, clean and decisive in it's flavours.

Cadenhead's Littlemill 1990, 11 Years Old
Littlemill has never been a favourite with critics-or blenders-but I have always thought it a good example of a Lowland malt.

Littlemill 1984, 18 Years Old, Chieftain's Choice
The rum finish is very sympathetic towards the natural flavours of Littlemill, but the combination never quite delivers what it promises.

Glenkinchie 1988 Distiller's Edition
Glenkinchie was always robust for a lowlander, and this expression is more so. Again, it works: the typical grassy sweetness brought out by a touch of sherry.

Rare Malts Rosebank 20 Years Old
This is how Lowlanders used to be: drier, more herbal, more complex. Buy now, while stocks last.

Strathisla 12 Years Old
A malt that dares to be truly oaky. Thank heavens for boldness and individuality in a world where blandness is always an easier option. This beautiful old distillery is Chivas showpiece, but it is more than a pretty face.

Auchentoshan 10 Years Old
At 10 years, Auchentoshan makes an expressive, eloquent claim to being the classic Lowlander.

Cadenhead's Bladnoch 1989, 13 Years Old
Tired and irritable when first poured, but gradually opens up, more so when water was added.

Douglas Laing Bladnoch 22 Years Old
Good balance of the fruity acidity and sweeter juicy notes.

James MacArthur Auchentoshan 10 Years Old
I have not previously encountered such a full expression of Auchentoshan, but the style suits the whisky.

Signatory Bladnoch 1974
A whole range of aromas and flavours that are hard to pin down. Sent me into a reverie: a long weekend in a big house, with kippers for breakfast, toasted brown bread and good marmalade. The house also smells of furniture polish.

Signatory Rosebank 1989
With its curiously greeny-white colour, this one actually looks like a ghost. A shadow of a great malt.

Signatory Linlithgow 1975
Good for its age, but I preferred it two or three years ago.

Midleton Very Rare
In general, Midelton is a bit too elegant for me, but this is a lovely vintage. The Yquem of whiskies?

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