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Issue 30 - Beyond the finish line

Whisky Magazine Issue 30
April 2003

 

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Beyond the finish line

Dave Broom considers what kind of innovation is good for whisky

The terror of the blank page has gripped me. That's the trouble with new editors. They always crack the whip in their first few issues and put we poor hacks under ridiculous pressure over such irrelevancies as deadlines. I can't work under these conditions, so I grab a chunky tumbler, some ice and poured a slug of Orangerie.

Haven't heard of it? It's the latest offbeat idea to leap, fully formed, out of John Glaser's ever-fertile and occasionally slightly worrying imagination. Oh, and it isn't whisky. Well it is, but it isn't. It's a blend of malt and grain, but because John has macerated orange peel and spices in it, it must be called ‘spirit'. Neat, it is intensely, zestily orangey, as if someone is rubbing their thumbnail over the fruit's skin and spraying it up your twitching nose. There's other stuff going on, reminding me of one of those clove-studded oranges you plop into mulled wine. It does need dilution though. John likes water, I just go for ice. Straight in the glass. Can't be bothered shaking and straining anything today. Now it reminds me of an Old Fashioned. A really, really good, light, subtle Old Fashioned. A New Old Fashioned perhaps.

I take another sip. Hey, this stuff is getting addictive. It came swathed in a flouncy white gown, a slender 37.5cl bottle topped with a wax seal. The whole package reminded me somehow of Susan Sarandon. The whole package – the look, the label, the wild flavour – added up to a drink which plays about with our conservati...

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