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Issue 39 - Let'sgotothesaladbar

Whisky Magazine Issue 39
May 2004

 

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Let'sgotothesaladbar

MartineNouetlightensupforsummer

Whenspringappears,wecravelight.Longerandbrighterdaysbutalsolightermealswithfreshcrunchyvegetables,specialsaucesandcold
dishes.Thisistheseasonforsalads.

Atfirstsight,thattypeoffooddoesnotexciteinspirationforgreatmatchesorrecipeswithwhisky.

Myculinarypassionforvinegarprobablyattractedtometostartworkingonpossiblepairingsforwhiskywithsalads.Iquicklyfoundveryinterestingcombinations.Nottheeasiestones,obviously,butreallychallengingrecipes.

Thegoodthingwithsaladsisthatyoucanworkinharmonywiththefourprimarytastes(sweet,sour,saltyandbitter).

SomewillthinkthatyouhavegottobeFrenchtopromotesuchafunnypairing.Well,saladisanightmaredishforwinetastersandwine-waiterswhenitcomestomatchingwinewithfood.

Wineandvinegarthough,inthecaseofwinevinegar,bothoriginatingfromgrape,areoftenseenasrivals.Vinegarismostoftenconsideredasdeterioratedwine,whichisnottrue.Itisanobleingredientinfood,providedithasbeenwell-crafted.ButitisstillnotwelcomedatsometablesinBordeauxChâteaux.

Thefunnythingisthat‘Frenchdressing'wasbroughtacrosstheChannelbyaFrenchemigrantfromnobleascendance:Monsieurd'Albignac,whosoughtrefugeinLondonduringtheFrenchRevolution.

AshewasdiningonedayinafamousLondontavern,hewasaskedbytwoyoungaristocratsifhecouldusehisnativetalentstodressthesaladforthem.Whichhedid.

Theyweresodelightedwiththeresultsthattheystartedsinginghispraisesintheirupper-classcircle.Monsieurd'Albignacbecamethe‘fashionablesalad-maker'andmadeacareerofit.

Heappearedwithhissmallbriefcasefullofthesacredingredients:awholeseto...

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