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Issue 54   |  Buy this issue   |  Other issues
Whisky Magazine Issue 54

Whisky Magazine Issue 54

Published on 03/03/2006

Whisky Tastings

BenRiach Bottled for Craigellachie Hotel 1976

Very enjoyable and marked up for balance and poised int.....

BenRiach 'Authenticus' Peated Single Malt 21 Years Old

Another region-buster and a good one too......

Bunnahabhain 18 Years Old

I couldn’t get past that taste of overfried bacon. This.....

Bunnahabhain 25 Years Old

A bold spirit, tempered by well-timed maturation. A lit.....

Dewar Rattray Bruichladdich 1993 12 Years Old

Complex, subtle and interesting, but not a dram to stay.....

Dewar Rattray Longmorn 1984 20 Years Old

Very pretty and summery. A good antidote if you feel yo.....

Douglas Laing Caol Ila 1979 26 Years Old, The Whisky Fair

Should have been taken out of the cask a few years back.....

Signatory Edradour Burgundy Finish

Not to my taste. Only useful as a weapon in hand-to-han.....

Glengoyne 37 Years Old, Sherry Butt

Sweet, filling, rich and satisfying. An impressive afte.....

Highland Park 16 Years Old

Pleasant but undramatic. I was a little disappointed to.....

Highland Park 21 Years Old, Ambassadors Cask

A touch astringent for my tastes, but respectable. Amba.....

Kirin 18 Years Old

Pretty, light in body, with the smoky/savoury element p.....

Mackmyra Preludium 01

Lowland-like, extremely pretty and characterful. Good b.....

Port Ellen 25 Years Old, Special Release 2005

Old, intense and busting for an olifactory fight. Compl.....

Queen of the Moorlands Caol Ila 10 Years Old, Rare Cask

Very good, but better without water. Is Caol Ila the mo.....

Single Malts of Scotland Clynelish 1972, Cask 15619

Good, mature but still lively......

Single Malts of Scotland Linkwood 1993, Sherry Butt, Cask 3517

Big cask character, with spirit style just poking throu.....

Talisker 25 Years Old, Special Release 2005

Excellent, although I was slightly put off by the fishi.....

Adelphi Clynelish 1995, Cask 12783

Quite a character. Water mellows the spicy burn. Would .....

Adelphi Invergordon 1964

A rich grain whisky on the fruity side. Interesting......

Balblair 38 Years Old

An enticing expression of old age. Forever young! With .....

Dewar Rattray Balblair 1990

The strength is a bit aggressive. And oak is not well-i.....

Dewar Rattray Invergordon 1964

Shy at first but cheering up on cake aromas. A liquid p.....

Glengoyne 12 Years Old

Lacks elegance and complexity. Oak dominates, with a bi.....

Glenmorangie Truffle Oak

A superb fruity expression, with a summery aromatic pro.....

Gordon & MacPhail Ardmore 1990, Cask Strength

A hidden complexity on the palate. A malt to give you a.....

Gordon & MacPhail Old Pulteney 1990 Cask Strength

So sherry… Dark Oloroso wipes out all maltiness. Unbala.....

Single Malts of Scotland Balblair 40 Years Old

Old and complex but keeping fit. A rich character, to b.....

Wild Scotsman

Didn’t do enough. A badly named whisky if you ask me… I.....

Contents

p5

A China crisis?

Dominic Roskrow considers what the long term effects of an increased demand for whisky might be

Chuck Cowdery’s feature in this issue raises a very important question: is it possible for at least some whisk(e)y to run out due to an increased demand for it? It would have been an unthinkable scen...

By Dominic Roskrow in the section From the Editor

p11

Royal Return

On the Queen’s yacht,Michael Jackson is back in Leith and heading for Islay

An invitation to dinner on the Royal Yacht. That’s what it says. I wonder, is she still royal? The yacht, I mean, not the Queen Even if the Queen were not the world’s most experienced practitioner of ...

By Michael Jackson in the section Musings with Michael Jackson

p12

A world all of its own

Whisky Live Tokyo has just taken place.Dave Broom tries to make sense of it all

Day 1: Being allowed into Japan isn’t like gaining entry to the United States where you get the notion that there’s an orange jump suit in your size under the immigration officer’s desk. A quick chang...

By Dave Broom in the section A dram with Dave Broom

p16

All up for grabs?

Are premium bourbons better positioned to snap up new drinkers, or can Scotch and American whiskey both flourish side by side?

The Participants: Roy Evans (RE) Sazerac Jim Long (JL) Chivas Brothers Dave Broom (DB) Whisky Magazine Bill Samuels (BS) Maker’s Mark Q: A couple of bourbon companies have recently expressed the vi...

By in the section Whisky debate

p18

The best year yet

This year’s Icons of Whisky were the toughest yet. Drawing up the shortlists was a nightmare.And the voting in nearly all categories was painfully close. Dominic Roskrowreports

If you’re reading this and you’re one of the industry personnel invited to vote in this year’s Icons of Whisky Awards but didn’t bother then shame on you. Because this year, more than any other, it re...

By Dominic Roskrow in the section Icons of Whisky

p26

Norman’s Wisdom

It may be ‘compact, cosy and bijou’ , but The Lincoln Whisky Shop is now packed to bursting with unusual and exciting whiskies. Richard Jones reports

You should see it during the Lincoln Christmas market period, there’ll be 40 people inside the shop jostling for space. We have to put someone on the door, not for security, but for crowd control,” be...

By Richard Jones in the section Whisky Spotlight

p29

Ask the expert

In a new series John Roseanswers some of your most commonly asked questions

Q.We hold our Whisky Society meetings in The Black Swan Pub and we think there was a whisky called Black Swan Whisky? Mike & Barbara Smith, West Coast Whisky Society, Vancouver A. There was a Black ...

By John Rose in the section Whisky Questions

p30

A forgotten gem (Deanston)

Deanston is the least-known of Perthshire’s six remaining distilleries. Ian Buxton visited it

Once, Perthshire was a major distilling centre. One researcher has listed more than 140 distilleries that were active in Scotland’s ‘Big Country,’ some working well into the 20th century. Today ther...

By Ian Buxton in the section Distillery focus

p35

A troubled troubadour

Ryan Adams has produced a huge volume of great music. Lew Guthrie III casts his eye over it, particularly last year’s Jacksonville City Nights

When Ryan Adams came crashing out of the American South he did so with the swagger of a guitar slinger and the talent of a troubled troubadour. Fearless, unpredictable and highly prolific, he’s never ...

By Lew Guthrie III in the section Whisky and Music

p36

You what?

Our Mystery Visitor thinks he has been unmasked so he’s taking a break. Here he recalls some of the stranger moments from distillery tours

The distillery tour had progressed very smoothly. Our group had watched the video, studied the information panels and listened intently to our charming guide. “Now,” she said, “are there any question...

By in the section Mystery visitor

p38

Whisky paradise

In the latest in our series on visiting distilleries Caroline Dewar looks at Islay and Jura

To many whisky fans Islay is the ultimate pilgrimage. Home to seven main distilleries – all world renowned names – and the new farm distillery at Kilchoman attracting whisky enthusiasts, this is hardl...

By Caroline Dewar in the section Visitor Guides

p42

Anot so auld

Did our Mystery Visitor really call Speyside a catering desert? Martine Nouet reports on a restaurant

If he’d been told 10 years ago that he would be living in whiskyland where rain and dampness are welcomed as blessings by those who mature the golden nectar there, French chef Eric Obry would have bur...

By Martine Nouet in the section Whisky and Food

p45

Dante’s inferno...

Jefferson Chase on an extreme independent novel that rode in through the back door

For the next couple of issues, I thought I’d focus on literature’s equivalent of the small-batch bourbon – books from independent presses. So let’s begin with an excellent and extreme novel, Dan Fante...

By Jefferson Chase in the section Whisky Literature

p46

A reluctant whisky hero? (Bill Smith Grant)

Bill Smith Grant wasn’t meant to inherit The Glenlivet. But as Iain Russell reports, his bold business decisions once he did revolutionised the whisky and made it famous

Bill Smith Grant didn’t intend to become a distiller. His father, George, had stipulated in his will that Bill’s elder brother John should inherit The Glenlivet Distillery on his 25th birthday, in Mar...

By Iain Russell in the section Whisky legends

p50

Don’t go against the grain

Despite views to the contrary,grain whisky can be pretty sensational - and great value for money.

My prejudice against grain whiskies was seriously shaken recently when I encountered a 39 year old Invergordon grain, from Duncan Taylor. It was in the company of eight malts, all more than 30 years ...

By Robin Laing in the section Grain whisky

p54

Elements of success

Glengorm Castle is becoming a remote whisky paradise. Rob Allanson visited it

There are several elements that go in to making a memorable night in a whisky bar – but Glengorm Castle is just a little bit more special. Whether it is the romantic, windswept landscape, the dramati...

By Rob Allanson in the section Whisky Spotlight

p55

Dubai’s whisky paradise

Joe Bates with the latest from travel retail

Joe Bates with the latest from travel retail. Store focus: Dubai. Dubai Duty Free is now the second largest dutyfree location after London Heathrow with annual sales of more than $2billion. Whisky...

By Joe Bates in the section Travel retail

p56

Are we running out

Probably not, says Charles Cowdery, but supplies are as tight as they have been in many years

At the end of 2004, the last year for which figures are available, the Kentucky whiskey industry had 224,173 barrels of whiskey aged eight years or more in its collective inventory. Because bourbon a...

By Charles K. Cowdery in the section American Whiskey

p59

Rob Roy

Ian Wisniewski on the nearest thing Scotland has to a national cocktail

Scotch whisky may be the national spirit of Scotland, though this doesn’t mean it provides a national cocktail, in the way that a mojito is an automatic choice for Cubans, or a dry martini is a favour...

By Ian Wisniewski in the section Whisky Cocktails

p60

Australia’s best kept secret? (Fidel’s)

Fidel’s in Melbourne is giving Australia’s finest city a taste of true luxury – but don’t tell anybody. Naren Young reports

The Macallan 1946 at $210 a pop. Mmm, nice. The Glenfarclas 40 year old at $352 a nip. Things are getting serious. The Glenfiddich 50 year for $495. Wow! The Glenffidich 1937 – yet to be priced, but w...

By Naren Young in the section Great whisky bars

p64

All in the mix

Ian Wisniewski explains how oxidation affects maturation

With oak casks regarded as the key influence during maturation, it’s tempting to see oxidation (the interaction of air and spirit within the cask) as a secondary factor. However, as air (principally o...

By Ian Wisniewski in the section Whisky production

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