The Irish question
In part one of a three part series, Dave Broom looks at the changing face of Irish whiskey.
It used to be so simple. Irish whiskey, so we were told, was an unpeated, tripledistilled spirit. During the years, however, these certainties have been challenged. Today, Ireland has three distillers. All make Irish whiskey, yet they all do it differently. Blends, triple-distilled single malt, double-distilled malt, heavily peated malt and what for years was called âIrish whiskeyâ. It leads one to wonder, what is Irish whiskey?
âWe can tell you what traditional Irish pot still whiskey is,â say David Quinn and Barry Crockett, two of Irish Distillers (IDLâs) four masters of whiskey. Quinn is master of whiskey science, Crockett is master distiller.
They pour five glasses of Jameson and we start tasting.
If the standard Jameson is all fragrant fresh fruits and spices, the 12 Years Old has added layers of sultana and honey. The palate is juicier, but thereâs still that tingling finish though now itâs changed from cumin to allspice. Thereâs less dried fruit here, more coconut and vanilla. The 18 Years Old is more in line with the 12 Years Old but with extra weight. Linseed oil, raisin, honey and a chewy texture which crisps beautifully on the finish. Then thereâs the new boy, Rarest Vintage, a blend of an aged grain and a selection of pot still whiskeys, one of which has been matured in ex-Port casks. Itâs deep, sweet and exotic, softly flowing with a sloe berry and, yes, spicy finish. âWe define traditional Irish pot still whiskey as being apple and spice.....
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By Dave Broom
Section : Irish Whiskey
Page number : 20
