Sliced, diced and matched with malt
Dave heads to one of the world’s most famous fish markets to discover how Japanese seafood works with
Scotch malt whisky
Four o’clock in the morning at the Park Hotel in Tokyo and the barstaff are winding down after their shift.No more ice balls, just large Jack Daniel’s.They’re heading for bed as I head to work.
Not for the first time it strikes me how we’re living in opposite time zones.
The morning is cold as we head down to Tsukiji. A half moon hangs above the market, its pale light mirrored by the dim bulbs, which barely light this city within a city.
A 10 minute walk has taken us from the razored spires of Shiodome to this district of shabby wooden buildings.
Tsukiji is Tokyo’s reverse image.
There are no girls tottering by, weighed down with carrier bags, rushing suited businessmen trailing cigarette smoke,no slouching hatted hip-hoppers trying to create an air of cool.This is Tokyo’s hidden side, part of its engine room.It brings to mind the bathhouse in Miyazaki’s Spirited Away, a parallel universe obeying its own rules.
We walk towards what might be an entrance, trying to second-guess the tuc-tucs whose crazily unpredictable routes seem to always bisect our path.The impression is that they would drive through you, not to assert their rights of way but because the drivers can’t see beings from another dimension.Have we ceased to exist?
Maybe not. One stops beside us.
The tiny driver, dirty bandana tied around his bald head.“Visitors!”he cackles.“Come with me!”and gestures for us to climb onto the back of the vehicle.He gives the thumbs up and, like Ben H.....
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By Rob Allanson
Section : Whisky and Food
Page number : 59
