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Issue 85 - Winter Warmers

Whisky Magazine Issue 85
January 2010


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Winter Warmers

Martine Nouet meets a chef with a passion for peat.

A roaring peat fire popping in the fireplace, a cosy sofa and a good novel. That's the way to get into a winter gear.

And also the perfect time for mulled wines, toddies and cocooning. Well, if you don't have peat to throw in the fire, or any fire at all, why not put it in your plate? Why not a warm up with peat this year?

David Mansaud, the young and inspired chef of Astor Hotel in Paris took the challenge up.

He has cooked a specially designed menu for Whisky Magazine, featuring three peated single malts.

Well, before starting warming up the pot, check with your guests that they like peated whiskies. The specific aromatic profile of these whiskies does not suit (soot?) every palate. It is often a question of love or hate. Mind you, maybe this is a new criterion to choose who is going to join your winter table this year: “Peat Freaks only” !

For the starter, we have selected the new Laphroaig 18 Years Old.

Medicinal but also creamy with luscious vanilla and crème brûlée notes. A natural pairing for shellfish.

“This single malt has been a true revelation for me,” David Mansaud explains. “I was flabbergasted at the aromatic intensity. These hospital aromas, this smoky and woody flavour immediately appealed to me. They give the dish a kick and uplift the spicy flavours. Without masking the lobster delicacy.” For the main dish, a beef fillet traced from a Norman cattle farm, the chef based the matching on mushrooms, more precisely boletus and chanterelles. ...

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