When pioneers like Agostino Arioli of Birrificio Italiano and Teo Musso of Baladin began fermenting barley and wheat for a living in the mid-90s, few could have predicted the fortunes of the Italian artisan brewing scene over the next three decades.
Today, the country boasts a vibrant landscape of around a thousand microbreweries. Each contributes to a richly diverse brewing culture that draws inspiration from the world’s leading brewing traditions — from the Belgian to the American — but remains unmistakably Italian in its approach, with a meticulous focus on celebrating of the ingredients and, generally, a commitment to the excellence of the final product.
If the Italian craft brewing scene has now earned its place alongside some of the world’s most renowned, one might wonder what the future holds for the country’s whisky.
The debut of Italy's first label, Puni, in 2015, made limited waves beyond a niche of (mostly domestic) enthusiasts, yet signalled that crafting a good quality whisky in the country was indeed possible, paving the way for a new chapter in the country’s artisanal booze-making story.
Additional projects have emerged since then, including Strada Ferrata. Some of these are spin-off initiatives by grappa producers, who, much like Cognac makers in France, view whisky not only as an exciting new endeavour but also as an efficient way to maximise the use of their stills during off-season. Others, such as Winestillery's Florentis whisky of young Tuscan distiller Enrico Chioccioli Altadonna, are purely driven by sheer passion for the spirit.
“My professional background is in law,” says Chioccioli. “In 2014, after graduating, I moved to New York where my now wife had secured an internship. At the time, I was more passionate about beer, but there I discovered a vibrant whisky distilling scene. I had a few months before officially starting my career as a lawyer, so I decided to try a work experience at a distillery.” After sending his resume to several local producers, Chioccioli eventually secured an internship at Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn.
“I did my interview with the owner, Colin Spoelman, who was about my age. I was mesmerised by those stills right in the heart of the city,” he recalls. “It was like a lightning bolt. The world of distillation completely captivated me, so within a week, I called my father and brother to tell them that I wanted to start a whisky distillery instead of pursuing a career as a lawyer.”
Upon returning to Italy, Chioccioli embarked on two years of intensive training and study, diving deeper into everything related to wine and spirits. His journey included hands-on experiences in Cognac and formal wine education in Bordeaux to ensure he was well-prepared for his new venture. “Those two years were incredibly intense but also deeply rewarding,” he admits. “My father had encouraged me to still take the bar examination to officially become a lawyer, while also laying the groundwork for this alternative path. So, I juggled preparing for the bar exam, studying oenology, doing courses in brewing and distilling, and working abroad at three different distilleries. I wouldn’t be able to manage such a schedule now.”
Such busy times also involved researching for a suitable still. After reaching out to various manufacturers internationally, the Tuscan distiller learned that Teeling in Dublin had installed stunning copper pot stills made just 30 minutes from his site in Gaiole by a local firm called Frilli. Intrigued by this option, he decided to order a custom-made 500-litre pot-and-column hybrid still, which he aptly named Bacco, after Bacchus, the Roman god of wine, fertility, and agriculture. With Bacco in place, he was finally able to begin distilling and officially launch his Winestillery project just before the Covid-19 pandemic hit in 2019.
As Chioccioli began experimenting with whisky, the production of gin, vodka, and vermouth allowed Winestillery to make an immediate entry into the market, while the inaugural whisky expressions had to wait until February last year. These include the core Florentis whisky range — one expression matured in SuperTuscan wine barriques and another in sweet Vin Santo casks — and a limited-edition single barrel, which sold out in days. Named 1492, this special release was a tribute to a key historical event for the region, the death of the renowned Florentine prince, Lorenzo de’ Medici.
The Florentis project is a reflection of the land and culture from which it originates. “My father, Stefano, is an oenologist and agronomist who has worked with many wineries across Italy, France, and Hungary,” Chioccioli explains. “In 2010, I had already started producing wine with my brother in Gaiole, in the heart of Chianti. Using our wine casks in the whisky production is a way to reflect the land and our family’s background.”
In addition to using wooden casks, Chioccioli celebrates his family’s (and land’s) vinous heritage by incorporating winemaking techniques into his whisky production, particularly through the use of seven-hectolitre, open-top terracotta amphorae and natural fermentation without commercial yeast. “The fermentation is uninoculated. We rely on the same ambient yeast that ferments our wine,” he explains. All the grains used are of Italian origin, too, with Chioccioli aiming to secure Tuscan malted barley through a local malting facility this year to further strengthen the local nature of Florentis.
While the whiskies undoubtedly reflect their Tuscanity, Chioccioli’s work is also strongly influenced by both single malt Scotch and American whiskey. His decision not to limit himself to barley, but to also use wheat, rye, and other grains, is a testament to his time at Kings County Distillery. The mashing, on the other hand, follows a Scottish approach, while the distillation process involves, more unusually, a single pot-plus-column step that brings the 7.5% ABV wash up to around 73%–75%. Such an eclectic approach extends to the maturation stage. “For SuperTuscan casks, we pre-proof to 50% ABV, similar to Cognac, as these casks can be very assertive. For Vin Santo, we age at 63.5% ABV, in line with Scottish tradition. This openness, I believe, represents the future of Italian whisky,” Chioccioli argues.
Meanwhile, the approach to managing the portfolio aligns closely with the global craft whisky movement. There are no immediate plans to change or expand the core offering, yet endless possibilities for special editions. “We’re always experimenting and working with various casks for future releases,” says Chioccioli.
“Experimentation is everything in whisky. In fact, we have already prepared casks for a new release consisting of 1,492 bottles, a symbolic number that again pays homage to our Florentine heritage.” The release will serve as a commemorative edition to celebrate Florentis' new home in the heart of Florence, whose opening should arrive at some point later this year.
The new site is not meant to replace the Winestillery location in Gaiole, but rather to expand the whisky production (a new purpose-built still is on its way, again made by Frilli, capable of handling larger volumes of 25 hectolitres). But the aim is also to give Florentis a proper, urban home. “Urban distilling is the environment that first got me in love with whisky, so giving Florentis a home in the middle of Florence feels like coming full circle with this project.”
Meanwhile, the site in Gaiole will continue to produce all other products, including gins, vermouths, bitters, and bottled cocktails. “This is both a strategic and functional choice. With the still in Gaiole, we can only fill one barrel a week; in Florence, we’ll be able to fill one a day,” he explains. “Plus, by keeping the whisky production separate, we avoid having to do blank distillations between different products.”
That said, all fermentation and mashing for Florentis will continue to take place in Gaiole. The wash will then be transported to Florence for distillation, with bottling and final proofing back in Gaiole. “Ageing, however, will occur at both sites,” Chioccioli explains. “First of all, we already have lots of barrels there, so it makes sense from a logistical perspective. But also, having barrels in two sites will allow us to study the differences between locations and give us more ingredients to play with when blending.”
Chioccioli’s ability to leverage a strong sense of place is an approach that could play a key role in defining the rapidly expanding Italian whisky-making landscape’s future. The country’s rich wine heritage offers a wealth of casks waiting to be explored for both maturation and finishing, and there’s a variety of grains to use as ingredients, too. “I’ve spoken with many colleagues to understand their perspectives, and despite our differences, there’s a shared foundation rooted in being Italian,” he explains. “Italy is a gastronomic powerhouse, where raw materials are paramount, and also has a strong wine heritage. I think that using great quality local ingredients and tapping into that heritage will certainly play a role for most of us going forward.”
With these defining elements in mind, and with the positive precedent of having developed a vibrant artisan beer scene from scratch, the outlook for the future of Italian whisky is undoubtedly positive. A scene that will likely combine the excitement of diverse influences with a discernible regional character, with Florentis spearheading this delicate balance.
