China, a nation where baijiu has long reigned supreme — commanding an astounding 97 per cent of the domestic spirits market — is starting to reveal an intriguing new frontier in the global whisky landscape. While brandy remains the leading imported spirit, accounting for 68 per cent of the total import value, whisky has quietly carved out its own niche, one that is growing. Despite a brief slowdown in 2023, China emerged as the world’s fourth-largest whisky market by value, with growth projected to reach an impressive 88 per cent between 2023 and 2026 — evidence of undeniable momentum. More than 40 distilleries are now spread across the nation, from the mist-laden mountains of Sichuan to the coastal stretches of Zhejiang.
Whisky entered China during the late Qing Dynasty, appearing in diplomatic circles. Johnnie Walker made its presence felt in 1910, followed by local production attempts, such as Tsingtao in 1914. Whisky remained niche until the 2000s, when renewed trade and cultural exchange revived interest, led by Taiwan’s Kavalan, and Daiking in Fujian. By 2021, often referred to as the ‘Year One’ of Chinese whisky, the market had grown substantially. Whisky imports surged, making China the fifth-largest market for UK whisky exports by 2023, valued at £237 million, with UK whisky capturing more than 85 per cent of the market share. Japanese whisky imports, meanwhile, experienced a decline of 27.45 per cent, affected by changing trade agreements and reduced demand.
Brands such as Chivas Regal, Johnnie Walker, Jim Beam, and Jack Daniel’s have solidified their presence, with premium labels like the Macallan and Hibiki enjoying acclaim. Whisky’s versatility resonates with younger consumers, especially Gen Z, who are driving growth through e-commerce and creative culture. Major cities have seen a rise in the number of whisky bars, with inventive cocktails and premium collections. This increasing interest has not only bolstered whisky imports but has also set the stage for a burgeoning domestic industry.
As Chinese producers rise to the occasion, they are poised to captivate a growing and increasingly discerning market, redefining what whisky can mean in a country that is steeped in tradition yet eager to embrace global influences.
Just two hours from Chengdu, the misty veil and gentle rain surrounding Mount Emei in Sichuan province create an enchanting setting for one of China’s most ambitious whisky projects. Here, Alexandre Ricard, CEO of Pernod Ricard, inaugurated the Chuan — the first operational prestige whisky distillery for the global spirits group. Despite the challenges posed by the Covid-19 pandemic, the £118-million project began construction in 2019, with the first pure malt whisky unveiled in late 2023. The name the Chuan reflects a desire to stand out, with ‘the’ emphasising its exclusivity, while ‘Chuan’ means ‘multiple rivers’, symbolising the harmony between water, soil, and humanity — the essential elements of terroir.
Nestled at the foot of Mount Emei, a Unesco World Heritage Site celebrated for its biodiversity, the distillery enjoys a unique microclimate — humid and misty with sunlit summers. These conditions, combined with the region’s pure spring water and rich microbial life, help shape the distinct aromatic character of the Chuan. Subtle notes of fruit and spice reflect the natural beauty of the surroundings, while the expertise of master distiller Tao Yang ensures that every drop captures the essence of Sichuan’s terroir.
The Chuan began by producing pure malt whisky, with barley partly sourced from China, complemented by a touch of Scottish heritage — Tao Yang studied and trained in Scotland. The fermentation process is unusually long — up to 100 hours — to enhance the whisky’s complexity. Distillation involves a two-stage process, starting with a 20,000-litre wash still, and finishing in a 14,000-litre spirit still. The distillation heart is collected early, ensuring a pure, elegant spirit. Maturation takes place in three types of oak barrels from different continents. Spanish sherry casks lend creamy textures and rich notes that appeal to Chinese palates. American bourbon barrels add hints of vanilla and fruit, while Chinese Danlin casks, originating from the Changbai massif (formerly known as Dan Dan Da Lin) — crafted from Quercus mongolica, similar to Japanese Mizunara oak — infuse the whisky with exotic aromas of dried tangerine peel, sandalwood, and agarwood. This innovative use of local oak imparts a distinct sense of Chinese heritage to each bottle, evoking “the enchantment of Chinese temples”, according to Tao Yang.
The Chuan’s debut release (40% ABV) was initially reserved for select visitors and luxury merchants, priced at £96.60. A second edition (46.8% ABV), matured in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks, is available for £130.40, and offers a richer texture, crafted to complement gourmet cuisine. Visitors can also hand-fill personalised bottles directly from Danlin Cask Strength barrels (60.5% ABV), priced at £162, offering an exclusive experience for enthusiasts.
On 15 December 2024, Diageo opened the YunTuo Single Malt Whisky Distillery in Eryuan, Yunnan, with an investment of £94.21 million. This cutting-edge facility underscores Diageo’s ambition to create a uniquely Chinese single malt whisky, one that will capture the imagination of whisky enthusiasts worldwide and establish China as a significant player in the global whisky narrative. The distillery’s name reflects both its geographical and visionary essence. ‘Yun’ (cloud) evokes Yunnan’s breathtaking highland beauty, while ‘Tuo’ (exploration) signifies a commitment to pushing the boundaries of whisky craftsmanship. Located at 2,100 metres above sea level, with four large imported pot stills, YunTuo seeks to resonate with Chinese consumers while putting Yunnan on the global whisky map.
Facing off against multinational giants, Chinese producers of baijiu, wine, and beer — such as Langjiu, Grace Vineyard, PandaBrew, and Tsingtao Brewery — are driving diversification in Chinese whisky. Among these pioneers, Laizhou Distillery, owned by Shanghai Bacchus Liquor (Bairun), stands out for its ambitious production capacity and groundbreaking approach to whisky-making.
Situated in Qionglai, Sichuan — a province that produces 50 per cent of China’s baijiu — Laizhou’s massive scale evokes comparisons with Diageo’s Roseisle distillery in Scotland. With an area spanning 146,000 square metres, Laizhou is equipped with eight pot stills of varying designs, and seven column stills with a total of 334 plates, enabling an annual production capacity of 30.1 million litres of pure alcohol (LPA), including 4.8 million LPA from barley. Laizhou is one of the few distilleries worldwide — alongside notable names like Roseisle or the Lakes — featuring pot still systems with both stainless steel and traditional copper tube condensers. This flexibility allows Laizhou to produce a wide range of whisky styles.
Barrel ageing is another cornerstone of Laizhou’s innovation. By the end of 2023, the distillery had filled 300,000 casks of 52 types, with plans to expand to 1.2 million casks. “Laizhou’s ambition is to satisfy the tastes of every whisky enthusiast,” says Chi Chi Ge, a brand ambassador integral to the distillery’s development. Like the Chuan, Laizhou has embraced Quercus mongolica for cask maturation, and has launched a plantation project in partnership with Beijing Forestry University. One of Laizhou’s standout innovations is its use of barrels seasoned with Chinese huangjiu, a rice wine with characteristics similar to sherry, adding unique aromas and enhancing the complexity of the whisky. The distillery’s in-house cooperage employs the STR (shave, toast, and rechar) technique, developed by Dr Jim Swan, which enhances young whiskies by refining new distillate’s harsher elements. This, combined with the use of bourbon, port, sherry, Rioja, and huangjiu barrels, ensures that Laizhou’s whisky remains a fascinating fusion of tradition and innovation.
Even before the official release of its first range of bottles in winter 2024, Laizhou had generated significant buzz. Three pre-sales of roughly 1,000 casks each were resounding successes, with the latest, in late 2023, selling out all 100 single casks in just three minutes. These milestones indicate Laizhou’s readiness to make a substantial impact on both the domestic and international whisky markets.
Meanwhile, France’s Camus family, collaborating with Gujinggong Distillery, aims to create “an exceptional Chinese whisky”. A sixth-generation member of the family, Ryan Camus is an expert in marketing baijiu in Europe, and understands the crucial importance of immersing oneself in baijiu culture to succeed in the Chinese market.
The production and consumption of spirits in China, deeply rooted in baijiu’s tradition, also shape the evolution of market trends. The adoption of a new national standard for Chinese spirits in 2022, which mandates that baijiu must be “brewed from grains without additives”, demonstrates a commitment to authenticity and quality. This regulatory change reflects the values Ryan Camus aims to embed in the whisky project, which shares the same grain-based foundation, further justifying the alliance with Gujinggong, a baijiu distillery with more than 1,800 years of history, and extensive family expertise. By combining techniques from baijiu and Cognac, the whisky aims for unique aromatic complexity, with a release planned for 2027–2028.
China’s whisky producers are free from centuries-old Western traditions, offering opportunities but also challenges. Some distilleries risk similarity to Scotch whisky by hiring foreign experts, and defining a uniquely Chinese character in whisky production remains a long-term pursuit worth significant reflection.
China’s diverse regions offer a variety of raw materials and innovative cask choices. Distilleries like Holyland in Yunnan, and Tianyoude in Qinghai use local barley, while others, such as Fujian’s Nine Rivers Distillery, import ingredients.
Some distilleries’ innovative maturation techniques include using barrels seasoned with regional products like Chinese wine, tea, and fruit wine, as seen at Loom & Shuttle Spirits in Penglai, and Gisbelle, in Yantai, both in Shangdong province, adding distinctive dimensions. Future projects, like Chun’an Distillery’s cave maturation, aim to use natural environments for unique flavours.
China’s whisky production reflects both artisanal dedication and industrial ambition. In Yueyang, Hunan, Dongwei’s handcrafted mini still exemplifies meticulous small-scale craftsmanship. In contrast, MengTai Group’s modular distillery in Inner Mongolia stands as a marvel of industrial ambition, involving the relocation of stills and equipment from Scotland’s Forsyths. Even distilleries adopting a Scotch-like approach are making international strides. Goalong Distillery, from central China’s Hunan province, has exported its Goalong Blended Chinese Whiskey and Goalong 5 Years Old Bourbon Cask Single Malt, both available through UK retailer the Whisky Exchange, marking a major step forward in entering the global market. But high pricing remains a challenge, as Chinese consumers may prefer established Scotch whiskies at similar or lower price points.
Whisky’s integration into daily life in China is influenced by baijiu culture, where food pairing is key. Laizhou Bar in Shanghai, which opened in 2022, offers a gourmet menu, with whiskies from six exclusive casks. Expansion to cities such as Guangzhou and Chengdu is under way. The Chuan also focuses on whisky and food pairing at its Dieyan restaurant, emphasising locally sourced ingredients and innovative dishes by Michelin-starred chefs. “Whisky bars and restaurants must attract a new wave of consumers,” says Wang Hao, manager of the Bottle Bar in Nanjing. “The trend leans toward younger generations, making quality offerings at accessible prices indispensable.”
The China Alcoholic Drinks Association and regional leaders are discussing whisky-producing regions at Mount Emei and Qiandao Lake. Though defining Chinese whisky terroirs is premature, the concept is gaining traction, supported by government initiatives. For example, Yanghe’s participation in the Tibet’s Earth Third Pole project highlights unique production frontiers. In 2024, Qiandao Lake, near Shanghai, hosted the First China International Whisky Development Conference, and has attracted key players, including Terry’s Brothers from Taiwan, international interest from Angus Dundee Distillery, and the newly established Mellow Valley distillery led by the Entellus — a brand initially rooted in Yunnan.
The story of Chinese whisky is one of transformation and ambition. From its rise as a whisky-consuming nation to its emergence as a whisky-producing powerhouse, China is reshaping the global spirits industry. Multinational giants and native distilleries are collaborating closely, forging a new chapter in whisky history. While much of China’s whisky landscape remains hidden in plain sight, the industry’s growth and distinctive offerings are beginning to shine through. One thing is clear: the world is on the cusp of a new-found appreciation for what Chinese whisky has to offer.
