In the world of fine dining, wine has long held court — a sovereign of the table, iconically pairing Chablis with oysters, and well-aged Bordeaux with steak. Its reign, however, is encountering a spirited challenge. Across continents and cultures, whisky is emerging from the shadows of postprandial sipping.
The notion of pairing whisky with food is not new; people have been writing about it for years, but with little traction. This is because whisky pairing has often been met with scepticism, even by aficionados. Many critics argue that whisky is too hard and too high in alcohol to be paired with food. “It’s just heat and burn,” they declare, echoing a common refrain on social media. Taylor Cope of the Malt Review website encapsulates this sentiment, saying, “Whisky pairs terribly with food. They diminish — rather than enhance — one another.” Nonetheless, if it does happen, he calls for a simplicity in approach. “If you insist on pairing whisky with food, keep it simple; Dean Martin mastered the art when he drank a glass of bourbon with a hamburger.”
Despite such reservations, a global cadre of chefs, sommeliers, and distilleries are embracing the spirit as a versatile companion to food. Fine-dining establishments with creative staff who are empowered to take risks and make funkier pairings are at the forefront of this movement. These sommeliers, traditionally the stewards of pairing, have been experimenting recently.
First, it was low-and-no pairings. Majken Bech-Bailey, formerly of Aimsir, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Kildare, Ireland, started to introduce high-end non-alcoholic pairings before the Covid-19 pandemic. It was so successful that she has launched a whole range of them called BÆK, described as “a new range of non-alcoholic wine alternatives specifically crafted for pairing with food”. The increasing request for non-alcoholic drinks opened the eyes of sommeliers to the growing world of pairings beyond fermented wine.
In Ireland, sommeliers such as Sinéad McCarthy, at Hawksmoor in Dublin, have honed their pairing skills over the years, enabling them to incorporate more locally produced drinks. These days, whiskey is taking a prominent place alongside offerings like Valentia Island vermouth, poitín, cider, and craft beers. The island of Ireland has more than 50 whiskey distilleries, which contribute to its network of restaurants, creating a sort of regionality that would have been unimaginable just 20 years ago.
At Liath, a two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Blackrock, County Dublin, the Whiskey Sour is reimagined as an edible creation — a jellied delicacy crafted with Egan’s 10 Years Old single malt. This dish exemplifies the innovative pivot towards food culture by combining bitter, sweet, salty, sour, and umami notes in a single bite. This is where the ‘grain to glass’ movement meets the ‘farm to fork’ push.
Keelan Higgs of Variety Jones, another Michelin-starred establishment in Dublin, is similarly adventurous. His pop-up at Roe & Co distillery in the city’s Liberties featured experimental whiskey pairings with food, the most memorable of which was the Roe & Co Solera with duck paté and waffles. This kind of experience challenges preconceived notions of whisky’s role at the table.
The pivot toward whisky pairing is not confined to Ireland. In Japan, whisky has long been intertwined with food. There, it is common to dilute whisky with water to create ‘Mizuwari’, which is often enjoyed with meals. Japanese food-and-whisky-pairing events have become a common way for curious drinkers to get a feel for this country’s whisky offerings. These events often pair Hibiki Harmony with the delicate textures of sashimi, while a good tempura’s subtle richness easily matches Hakushu 12’s verdant, smoky character.
One notable example of whisky’s pivot into pairing comes from Taiwan, where the one-Michelin-starred restaurant La Maison de Win, in Taichung, redefines pairing conventions. Under the guidance of food and beverage director Xavier Tzeng, the establishment explores the synergy between whisky and the complex flavours of Taiwanese and Chinese cuisine. In an interview with the Michelin Guide, Tzeng said, “Whiskies may have a high alcohol content, but, in fact, they have a warm and mellow style without overly pronounced personalities, which make them an excellent match with food.”
The chefs, John Chiang and Rory Lin, merge contemporary Taiwanese fare with refined Western techniques, crafting dishes such as sausage rice with salmon roe and koshihikari rice — a reinterpretation of traditional Cantonese preserved meat and rice. Tzeng suggests that a rich whisky finished in sherry casks or a peaty expression pairs excellently with this dish. He maintains that only a whisky’s depth can complement the sweetness and umami of the preserved meats and marinated roe.
Scotland, the ancestral home of many renowned whiskies, is seeing its spirit finding new companions. Johnnie Walker offers chocolate-and-whisky-pairing tours. At Glenturret Distillery, visitors can explore its past with a specially crafted pairing meal at the Glenturret Lalique Restaurant. Last year, this exclusive, six-table, dinner-only venue earned two Michelin stars. It integrates whisky in different ways to match the seasonal produce, and elevates its haute cuisine with locally produced drams. This type of pairing is not limited to fine-dining establishments, though. It has trickled down to more casual venues, too. Talisker’s maritime notes harmonise so well with oysters that this pairing has become a staple at seafood festivals.
In many ways, the United States was the first to embrace whisky and food pairing. The pairing of bourbon with Southern barbecue has been around for so long that it has become a tradition. Ger Garland, global brand ambassador for Keeper’s Heart, thinks this is because the foods and whiskeys of the area work well together. He says, “The influence of American oak in bourbon works really well with high-fat, high-protein foods.” He highlights the quintessential pairing of bourbon with ribs or the famed Minnesota ‘Juicy Lucy’ burger, noting how the whiskey’s tannins, wood sugars, and spice elevate the dining experience. Throughout whiskey-making America, there are reams of barbecue and whiskey festivals that each come with regional pairings.
Online, and most notably on social media, the influencer generation has also been leaning into whisky-and-food pairing. There are many YouTube videos about it. TikTok is full of people recommending pairing whiskies with things as complicated as an eight-course tasting menu in a London restaurant to simply matching Scotch with cheese and chocolate.
These latter two seem to be universal choices for pairing. You can see local whiskies paired with cheeses throughout the UK and Ireland. There has yet to be a smattering of small-plates restaurants that offer whisky and cheese the way they offer wine pairings, but the industry does not seem too far off this.
Niall Wynn of Dublin’s Proper Order coffee shop and No Messin’ bakery thinks this could become increasingly popular. He says, “There is a huge space for fine dining and Michelin-starred pairings, but the scope for this to work for consumers at pub level is under-explored and definitely something the market could adapt to.”
It might become increasingly common as more whisky bars include food offerings and skill their staff in the emerging art of whisky pairing. Usually, trends that start at the Michelin Star end of the market find their way to the pub eventually.
The reluctance to pair whisky with food often stems from concerns about its high alcohol content. Yet, as any regular whisky drinker knows, you can taste the depth of whisky no matter the proof. Alex Elrod, brand experience manager at Balcones Distilling in Texas, articulated this perspective in an interview with Forbes, saying, “While there are no strict rules, certain principles can guide whisky pairing. Similar to wine, balancing or contrasting flavours between the dish and whisky can work wonders.
“Exploring complementary flavours like smoked meats with a smoky whisky or contrasting flavours like a spicy dish with a lower ABV and more fruit-forward whisky can often create delightful pairings. However, personal preference and experimentation play a significant role in finding the perfect match.”
The whisky industry’s pivot towards food pairing reflects a broader evolution in the sector and our preferences. Customers increasingly seek community and novel, authentic experiences in all their recreation. With food pairing, whisky offers untapped potential. Its integration into food spaces is a much-needed departure from tradition, one that embraces innovation.
