Despite existing principally to instigate merriment, Scotch whisky can sometimes come off as a bit of a stiff drink. Though the industry has, for the most part, been telling people they can enjoy the spirit however they want for the past decade — neat, with water, on ice, in a mixed drink, or hoarded in hope of realising future profit — the prevailing Scotch culture among the public remains one of rules, rituals, and jargon.
Use the right glass. Don’t add ice or water. View the colour. Ponder the nose. Appreciate the flavour. Contemplate the finish. Take notes. Compare scores. Don’t you dare put that in a cocktail. Drinking has never sounded so much like homework, yet that so many are willing to step into such a daunting room, all in pursuit of whisky appreciation, speaks to the reverence with which Scotch, and especially single malt, is held in the collective consciousness. I can’t count how many times I’ve been told, “I don’t drink Scotch, but I want to.” Then why not start? “My palate isn’t developed enough.” And there’s the rub.
The pedestal we so eagerly place Scotch whisky on, one it undoubtedly deserves to occupy, also serves to elevate it beyond reach in the minds of many, and this effect can be compounded within those who already might feel they don’t deserve, or aren’t allowed to be, in the room. Single malt Scotch whisky may be collected, displayed, flipped, dissected, studied, posed with, Instagrammed, bragged about, and used as a club tie to signal status. But earnestly enjoyed? Somehow, the fact that this incredible spirit fuels exploration of the senses and the self, catalyses connection, initiates lifelong friendships, and sparks real joy is getting lost in the noise. In an effort to be aspirational, Scotch can come off as exclusionary.
Largely thanks to Jack Daniel’s, American whiskey is a recurring character we see rocking out at gigs and vibing in clubs. Driven by one high-volume, good-value brand, Irish whiskey, for better or worse, is often the chaser or pick-me-up paired with stout or caffeine and great craic. In their own ways, both are the life and soul of the party. Beyond whisky, wine is made for the soirée and the table, and whether that table is plastic or mahogany, it’s never far from the clatter of knives and forks, the clink of glasses, and the chatter of conversation. Even craft beer, for all its geekery and technicality, is rooted in the buzz of the beer hall, the sizzle of the barbecue, and the dealing of cards. As for single malt Scotch, it’s the one who doesn’t dance at parties. And let’s be honest: when did you last dance at a Scotch whisky event?
It wasn’t always this way. Whether it was tongue-in-cheek quips, satire, double entendre, or vaudevillian showmanship, Scotch whisky used to pride itself on being a character — and usually the kind that made you smile. Yes, it often fell into caricature (mistakes were made), but it always had a twinkle in its eye. Over the past two centuries, bold creativity and wry humour helped build the category. Though making Scotch was always a serious business, it wasn’t to be taken too seriously. And yet, as single malt approached its zenith, Scotch whisky’s tone of voice shifted in an increasingly lofty direction. The distilleries that put their communities front and centre, presented authentically, with relaxed confidence and a touch of humour, are far rarer than they should be.
Today, some brands are embracing a bit of fun. Laphroaig’s collaboration with Willem Dafoe, Lagavulin’s with Nick Offerman (feat. Pinky), and, to some extent, Glenmorangie’s with Harrison Ford, are a step in the right direction, though I suspect none of them are really speaking to anyone Scotch hasn’t spoken to before. Bruichladdich’s ‘Not Your Classic’ and Glenmorangie’s ‘Delicious and Wonderful’ perhaps did a better job of inviting newcomers in, and of course, Ardbeg has elevated having fun with whisky into an art form. As the industry navigates the current slowdown and a pervasive atmosphere of hopelessness, I urge distillers to question whether being so serious is the most effective way to win hearts and minds. After all, drinking Scotch is rather good fun. We should make sure people know that. And maybe dance a little more.