the distillery.“It was the key to success,” says Hynes. “It gave us volume sales and most importantly it gave us turnover.”By 1995 Teeling was confident enough to fire up the stills, and to this day the distillery hasn’t stopped production.Cooley is a rare breed. A small, independent distillery in a world of multinational drinks companies. As such, its hard-won success makes it ripe for a take-over. The list of suitors so far includes Seagram, Guinness, Grant’s, Burn Stewart and, most recently, the people behind
Angostura bitters.“All the hard work has been done,” says Teeling. “We are now making money and we have the maturing stock.” But he admits he is under pressure.“It’s a good business now, and getting better. This is not the time to sell, but after 15 years of holding their investment, some smaller shareholders may want to see a return. If they had put their money into housing rather than whiskey, they’d have seen a huge return over the same period.”This lies at the core of Cooley’s current dilemma. The people who work in the distillery have sweated blood to make it succeed, and now the company is turning a profit, do they sell? In reality, though, the debate is a non-starter, it’s simply a matter of time before Cooley is sold; in fact this year it all but happened.C L Financial is a $5-billion conglomerate based in Trinidad and Tobago. They run the world’s fifth largest rum company, they own the aforementioned Angostura Bitters and 29 per cent of the Scotch whisky company Burn Stewart.For most of 2002, Teeling and Hynes were in secret negotiations with CL Financial. In September a deal was finally agreed, CL Financial would pay €33 million for Cooley, and they had until 5pm on 25th September to make a formal offer for the Irish company.However, 5pm came and went and the fax remained silent. Five days later Cooley released a press release simply stating: ‘No offer for shares in Cooley has been received by the board.’“We talked at length, but in the end they just didn’t do it,” says Teeling. “I asked if it was a good offer.”Yes and no. When you consider that nine years earlier Irish Distillers offered the equivalent of € 32 million, you can guess where he is coming from.“But Angostura haven’t gone away,”Teeling adds. “When they finalise their take-over of Burn Stewart they might be back, but certainly not before then.”Teeling gathers his papers and we walk towards security.“We’re 14 years into the process and we need another five years before the fruits of our labours will really show. But to do that we’re going to have to double sales in the next five years.”The stone warehouses in Kilbeggan are full of maturing whiskey and the County Louth plant continues to distil the year round. But whiskey is only worth money if it’s sold, so if Cooley is to survive, let alone thrive, it will have to shift six million bottles a year by 2007.If this fazes Teeling, he doesn’t let on.“If you look at it, I have done it the wrong way around. Where are we weakest? In Ireland. You can easily buy our whiskey in Germany for example, yet we have very little presence on the domestic Irish market or in the UK. In the north of Ireland, for example, we sell nothing at all.”The retailer own-brand market saved Cooley from bankruptcy, but it was a barbed victory. Margins were tight and it gave the competition something to raise its eyebrows at.These days, however, things are a little different. For a start, Cooley has bought out the BES companies and now owns the whiskey it produces, so it can make a decent return, even on retailer own-brand.But, of course, the greatest return is on Cooley brands such as Tyrconnell, Locke’s Malt and Connemara. All these are currently in the middle of a brand make-over and this is the market Teeling is most anxious to expand.Another interesting development comes with the bottling of single cask Cooley malts. In their spring 2003 list, The Scotch Malt Whisky Society is launching two Irish malts: a dry, smoky 9-year-old and a 12-year-old unpeated whiskey.The latter is the oldest expression of Cooley malt available, and the good news is that these malts are taking middle age in their stride.“Smoky bacon crisps with carbolic soap” is how the ever-poetical Charles MacLean describes the first, while the unpeated is described as having a nose of “tinned fruit cocktail.” Both wowed cynical Scotch drinkers at the launch in the Edinburgh members’ room.Teeling takes my hand and shakes it firmly.“You know, it takes a lot of cases to make a decent return from Dunnes Stores or Tesco own brands,” he says.“At the same time, we recently bottled a limited edition of 1,000 bottles of our original distillate, it retails at €75 and it’s selling like hotcakes!“It doesn’t take a degree in business studies to work out which market you want to be in.”With that mission statement hanging in the air, he’s gone. Swept into security and spat out in the departures lounge, running for his plane, past shelves laden down with Paddy and Jameson.Well, after all, this is Cork.