Nose

Disappointingly closed and missing that rich, slightly honeyed magic of old. A dull oakiness is OTT.

Palate

Closer to its lovely old self, but still clouded by a chalky oakiness which dulls the richer, ultra-malty, notes.

Finish

Still out of sync. The oak seems to contain something too austere.

Comment

I am sure this is a wood problem: nearly two full marks down on its score from three years ago. What a massive disappointment.