Taster

Nose: Unusual afternoon tea: just-baked scones, candied orange peel and oat cakes with goat's cheese and quince paste. First aid kits.

Palate: A silky, oily texture allows the smoke in this to sneak up slowly. Vanilla panna cotta and Victoria sponge precedes charcoal and antiseptic. Interesting seaweed and dry-hopped beer, alongside fennel-studded saucisson.

Finish: Long. Salty cheese, peppery tingle.

Comment: Sweet and smoky Islay with pleasing development. My kind of complexity.

Score: 8.5

Taster

Nose: Menthol straight off, hospital corridors, coal tar soap and smouldering coals. But a sweetness too, ewe’s cheese and honey, fresh figs. Changing rooms.

Palate: Nice and sweet, clotted cream and custard, rum and raisin ice cream, then the smoke unfurls, bringing winter green rub. Chinese takeaway seaweed – deep fried cabbage and sugar.

Finish: Takes its time. Has the saline of cured ham fat and little spice.

Comment: This for me is a great BBQ whisky, sitting out in the garden waiting for the coals to heat through.

Score: 8.1