Nose

Amazingly elemental: coastal, with notes of brine and citrus, with a lovely honey core. A malty, slightly smokey black tea note, with apricots and traces of coal dust.

Palate

Viscous, honeyed, smokey (rather than sweet peat) and lemon juice. The honey becomes mead. The saltiness is acute: drifts into tobacco and dried herbs. Warming cloves. Cloying and oaky, too.

Finish

It unravels towards unbalanced astringent, peppery and peat notes.

Comment

Very pleasingly old-school and mouth-watering.